cadman Posted May 22, 2005 Posted May 22, 2005 I just added a 2nd landlord to my simplicity collection it is I think a 1969 Landlord 3210 mfg#990568. It doesn't currently have spark and I am realizing that the engine will have to come out for coil replacement and as such was wondering if anybody has converted the cast iron briggs 10 hp to the new style breakerless ignition setup? It has external points Would anyone know what the part numbers for the conversion might be? The usual briggs numbers are completely rusted off the top of the engine so I don't have them available for reference. Sincerely, Colin Morris a huge fan of simplicity enineering :-)
tractormike Posted May 22, 2005 Posted May 22, 2005 You could alway find a kohler coil or an automotive 12 volt coil and use a ballast resistor with it and save yourself the trouble of pulling the engine. My narrow front tractor project engine had a dead ignition coil and I just used a coil from a kohler engine. I use the stock points and just wire in the ignition coil and your good to go. I know this isn't stock but it works well if you just want it to run.
RayS Posted May 22, 2005 Posted May 22, 2005 A magnetron ignition won`t work without sending the flywheel back to Briggs to have it repolarized. But you can put a electronic ignition module in it without having to send it back to the factory for repolarizing. I would clean the points first it may be as simple as that. The electronic module pictured above is alot better than a set of points in my opinion.
JJ MARSHALL Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 EVEN WITH ADDING THE ELEC MODULE THE COIL THAT ON THE ENGINE MUST BE ABLE TO PRODUCT FIRE < A SPARK > JJ
jjouelle Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I just finished going through the same thing with my 64 Landlord with a 9hp Briggs 23d engine. It had no spark, so I ended up putting original Briggs points and a new coil. Now that thing fires right up and purrs like a kitten:D:D:D. It cost me $100 for everything, but I'm sure it's good for another 40 years!!!
RayS Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 quote:Originally posted by JJ MARSHALL EVEN WITH ADDING THE ELEC MODULE THE COIL THAT ON THE ENGINE MUST BE ABLE TO PRODUCT FIRE < A SPARK > JJ My point was that if the points are dirty, not gapped correctly you are not going to get spark any way. 9 times out of ten the coil is fine and it is the points and condensor. I have a engine that would get a little oil thru the plunger and short out the points and in the winter while blowing snow it would also get condensation in the points cover and short them out. After I got tired of replacing points and condensors I went to the electronic module and would never go back. All I am saying is make sure that it is the coil before you spend $40.00 on a coil.
jkmustang1 Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I agree with Ray What he showing works like a champ on my B110. I have another for my B10 with broken plunger easy fix for that too.
HubbardRA Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I'm with Tractormike. I put a Kohler coil on a 243431 B/S 20 years ago. Still runs great with same points and condenser.
cadman Posted May 23, 2005 Author Posted May 23, 2005 Well if it ever stops raining here (NH) long enough and I can get a little time to check out the points better I will. Don't have a shop here yet:(! It probably isn't the coil, I do remember on my 64 landlord the condenser had continuity to ground. I replaced the condenser and points 8 years ago and it has been very reliable since. I would like to try installing the aftermarket electronic module type if I can get the coil to work with the points. Are there any brands of module that would be better than others? Just for grins I might try the external coil option sometime and I would like to find out how to wire it correctly. I could see that if I did create a battery ignition with external coil I would have the problem that my 66 Bronco plow truck has when it stalls and the key is on the points burn out very shortly after, in this case the electronic module would likely prevent that I think or does the ballast resistor prevent this condition? I must say though that my 64 landlord never stalls though.
powerking_one Posted May 24, 2005 Posted May 24, 2005 Colin, The Briggs PN for the add-on Magnetron module is 394970 (~~ $10.89 from Jackssmallengines.com). Like Ray notes, you'll have to send the flywheel back to B&S for re-polarization though. There is a link in the resources section here that covers the process. Tom(PK)
landlord2110 Posted May 24, 2005 Posted May 24, 2005 I to have two landlord tractors and the points have been nothing but problems. My second tractor I bought had the module on it and I had problems and my mechanic didnt believe in them and replaced with the points. I may go back to the module if the points bother again.
lucius Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 What is the advantage or disavantage of installing an external coil? I'm not a mechanic & just purchased a B&S 12 horizontal as a spare engine. It has an external automobile coil. I plan to have the engine gone through and wonder if I should have it returned to original electric at that time. Would appreciate any opinions. Thanks, Lucius
2burning Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 One disadvantage of an external coil is that you need battery power to fire the spark while starting. With a magneto internal type coil, you just need to get the engine spinning fast enough and it will fire.
Kent Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 One big advantage of an external coil is faster starting (due to immediate hot spark) in cold weather... The amount of spark is not dependent on how fast the engine is turning over, as it is with a magneto system. This can be a BIG plus with a cold, cold, engine or weak battery.... A well tuned engine with external coil (and the proper choke setting) shouldn't have to run over more than 2 or 3 times (usually to get a good fuel/air mix) before firing off.
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