electric pto wire broken - solder?

[TomMaryland 0]

Hi guys, I have an electric pto on a 92 broadmoor that has a wire broken right at the point where it dives into the coil. Has anyone ever soldered the wire into place down in there? Or is it just not feasible? What do you think my options are? Its a Warner pto # 5210-33 simp #1703816 Thanks!

[Guest]

Try this link: http://www.j-thomas.com/main_pages/hint_pages/warner_clutchguide.htm Warner Garden Tractor Clutch Troubleshooting Guide Prepared for Service Technicians

[HubbardRA 19]

Tom, If it were me, I would try to remove enough of the coating, or whatever covers the coil, to allow at least about a half inch of the wire to be exposed. I would then wrap the wires together, for both mechanical strength and to allow the current to be carried directly through the wire, rather than just thru solder. Solder should be used primarily as a fastener and corrosion preventer, and not as the main current carrying mechanism. If the only other option is buying a new coil, then what have you got to lose in trying to fix it yourself. This is how I justify doing some of the strange fixes that I come up with.

[TomMaryland 0]

Thanks for the link, Mike. Thats really cool. Hubbard, Great idea! I didn't approach it that way. OK, if repairs fail.....who has the best price?

[Paul_B 0]

You really don't have much to lose by trying to solder. As before, try to get some length of wire from the coil exposed so you can solder. I'd also use a rosin core type solder and minimize the time you expose the soldering iron to the connection. Excess heat may damage the expoxy or wire coating on the windings within the coil. Also put some expoxy or silicone to act as a strain relief and to keep water and dirt out of the coil. Good luck!

[JP 0]

Hey Tom, If it's like the Pmax, the coil is made with Aluminum wire. The connections to the outer wire are 'crimped' on.

[Leroy 0]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
Tom, If it were me, I would try to remove enough of the coating, or whatever covers the coil, to allow at least about a half inch of the wire to be exposed. I would then wrap the wires together, for both mechanical strength and to allow the current to be carried directly through the wire, rather than just thru solder. Solder should be used primarily as a fastener and corrosion preventer, and not as the main current carrying mechanism. If the only other option is buying a new coil, then what have you got to lose in trying to fix it yourself. This is how I justify doing some of the strange fixes that I come up with.

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Rod, your part right. A common tin based solder is not the best for a lawn mower or electrical connections . The more silver there is in the solder, the more conductive it is. More conductivity means a reduced resistance and reduced heat. High resistance due to a poor solder job would render the wire repair a waste of time. You can bet a valve stem remover, that the wires comming out of that unit are solderd to the conductors they are attached to inside that PTO unit. While an amature should not attempt to repair this unit. for 2 reasons. 1.The guy who will be asked to fix the botched job will probably charge more for the mess he has been given. 2. If the coating on the conductors at the winding ends inside the PTO are not recoated after the replacement of the wire it wont be very long and the oxidation will sever the wires, where they are not coated. 40% Silver, 28% Zinc, 30% Copper, 2% Nickel This is no doubt the composition of the solder used to join the wires inside the pto. Automotive electrical shops should have the tools experience and materials to get er done.

[HubbardRA 19]

Leroy, I use only electrical solder on my wiring. I didn't specify a solder type above. My son is an electronics technicial and he usually brings me some solder to match the connections that I am making. I would not try to use plain old solder like someone would use on a radiator. It is not made for electronics.

[TomMaryland 0]

I didn't read the extra posts on here, but the points are correct about conductivity. I always use a high silver content solder we use at work ( I work for WL Gore)( on aerospace/military cable assemblies ). I had about 5/16" of wire coming out of the coil to use, which was fed through a nylon or polpro strain relief in the coil housing, with no epoxy to chip away. The current Warner part # 5215-59, old # 5210-33. Wasn't much room to do anything in this assembly at all. So.... I cleaned both ends of the wires....braided them as best I could and soldered them together. Then I used some potting compound (also from work) and made a big strain relief over the wires about 1" long which bends around the coil then threads through a little holder on the end of one spring. Resistance in right around 4 ohms. After reassembly I just now took it out for a spin, although the grass is still dewey. Works like a champ! Now lets see how long it lasts!

[HubbardRA 19]

Congratulations, Tom! Should work great, and saved a bunch of money. Sounds like you know more about soldering than I do. I don't throw many things away till I try to fix them. Guess it is the challenge, or something like that. Cheapskate, maybe?

[TomMaryland 0]

quote:

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I don't throw many things away till I try to fix them. Guess it is the challenge, or something like that. Cheapskate, maybe?

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I wouldn't say cheapskate...it just makes sense anymore! :D