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Lookie lookie at what I got!!!!!


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Posted
Just pick this up today:D:D:DIt's a 18 twin opposed cyl Briggs. Im going to put this baby in the 3410 that I'm making for my wife to pull with. It should do well, what do ya think?

It's looks like it will fit in with some fabercation. It's not too tall, and not too long, but the base is alot smaller side to side, but wider front to back. I'll also need to make some sort of adapter for the fly wheel to the drive shaft. I think it looks mean in there don't you? Hopefully I can get it in and still use the sheet metal for the heads, and flywheel.

Any advice or tips, or pictures of simalar setups please share them. Elon
ridgerunner
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by ehertzfeld Im going to put this baby in the 3410 that I'm making for my wife to pull with. It should do well, what do ya think?
If your going to go through all that trouble to shoe horn it in there don't ya think ya could atleast let her ride it and not pull it.:D All kidding around it'll be a stump puller for sure. (lots of torque) -Paul
Posted
A booster fan off any cast iron briggs will bolt right up to the flywheel and then it hooks up just like a single cyl. Also I think you could trim the frame a little as these tractors have lots of extra metal in them. Trimming the frame a little shouldn't hurt a thing. Also relocating a few braces shouldn't hurt it either.
Posted
I saw a 7016 with one of those cobbled into it at a auction a couple of years back. They had welded a steel plate across the frame from side to side to mount the engine onto. Not pretty , but functional...
Brent_Baumer
Posted
I just saw a twin 16 mounted in a AC700 series last weekend. They had to cut the crap out of the frame and hood to make it fit. Not sure how it compares to your 18, but like Sam's, not pretty but functional. It ran good too. Brent
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
A booster fan off any cast iron briggs will bolt right up to the flywheel and then it hooks up just like a single cyl. Also I think you could trim the frame a little as these tractors have lots of extra metal in them. Trimming the frame a little shouldn't hurt a thing. Also relocating a few braces shouldn't hurt it either.
First off what is a booster fan? and does anyone have an extra? Do you mean the st/gen pulley? Second, I plann on trimming the rear support to fit the engine in. Im not sure I will need to weld another brace on, I only need to cut a little bit off. Elon
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Brent_Baumer
I just saw a twin 16 mounted in a AC700 series last weekend. They had to cut the crap out of the frame and hood to make it fit. Not sure how it compares to your 18, but like Sam's, not pretty but functional. It ran good too. Brent
From what I can see the only cutting will be the frame brace, and mayby one of the sides the angle down. I mite need a bit more room for the shroud. The hood will not have to be cut at all. Elon
Posted
Elon, I would cut the side frame rails enough to allow use of the cooling shrouds. If you are worried about frame strength after cutting, then weld some flat bar inside the remaining frame to strengthen it enough to compensate for the cuts. Remember, when Simplicity put the twins into the 7100 series machines they cut notches in the frame for cylinder clearance. Also, that engine mount strengthens the frame a lot in that particular area. I'd fit the engine into the frame with shrouds first, and then decide if it needed some beefing up. I know that with your abilities, you can make it look like it came from the factory with that engine. It won't hurt anything if you have to lift the engine a little to clear the edges of the mount. Those flex joints will take a decent amount of angle without problems. Just keep the crankshaft centerline parallel with the tranny shaft and you shouldn't have any problems. In other words space it up evenly. Don't set it on an angle to make it point toward the tranny or that will cause a bad vibration. I made a driveshaft adapter for a Cub Cadet Kohler engine that I had on the 61 Wards at one time. Just laid out the two bolt patterns on the computer, printed the layout on paper, laid the paper on a piece of 1/8 thick metal and did the centerpunching thru the paper without moving it. I then drilled all the holes. I put long 3/8 bolts thru the plate before bolting to the flywheel, and these bolts hooked to the driveshaft. I could use an open end wrench to hold the heads to keep them from turning when tightening the nuts, since the driveshaft bolts are on a larger bolt circle than the flywheel bolts. I still have that engine and adapter at home if you want me to take some pictures for you. Have fun with it. Looks like it is going to be a sweet machine.
JJ MARSHALL
Posted
i have a 416 a/c with a twin 16 B&G and a 312 A/c with a twin 18 hp B&s. I trim a little off the sides for the head to clear. i did not raise the motor. you might have to trim some off the center panel if you raise the motor to clear the drive shalf. be sure and check your oil drain pipe as to where you want to drain oil out at. don't do as i did mount it before i thought about it. I think you might have a problem with the exhaust that is on the engine now.I just put dual exhaust on mine a round muffler on each side. JJ
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