620 allis starting problem

[AmmJay 0]

Hello all.. I've searched the forums and can't locate an answer to my problem,allthough I've most likely missed it. Anyway, the starter on my 620 A/c won't engage after the tractor has been running enough to get the engine up to operating temp (maybe 1/2 hr). When the key is turned to start, the amp guage goes to full discharge, but nothing happens. Swat the tractor frame along the implement mount section of the frame and it will usually turn over and start then. I ended up pulling the motor to remove the starter and took it to a competent starter/alternator shop. The starter was fine but had them go over it anyways. (It's just too much fun pulling the motor). They recommended a battery check, which turned up a bad battery.replaced the battery reassembled the tractor and still have the problem,only now it does it when it's cold as well.Battery connections and ground are shiny clean. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. O J Ammer Mercer,Pa

[JP 0]

Hmmm, Sounds like a bad ground, Like motor to frame or starter to motor. I've had this type of problem before also. Pull the motor, cranks over fine out. Put it in, it gets REAL quiet when the key is turned (The metaphor's start about the same time,,,,, LOL). Let me know if I'm close........ LOL JP

[lbuttke 0]

Check the ground cable real good, not just where it conects to the chasie and battery, check the cable its self, cood be a bad spot in the cable, corroded wires dont conduct electricity very good, also check over the posative wire. Had the same problems with one of my cub cadets, had all the conections nice and shinny, and greased up still turned over like the crankcase was full of mud.Removed the ground cable, replaced it with a new one and it now spins over like it should. Just a thought.

[D-17_Dave 12]

Just had the same thing on a 4041, whitch is of course the same tractor. The neutral safety switch was shorted to ground. This explained the amp meter going to full discharge when trying to start. If you pull the belly pan off and access the switch you can take a jumper wire and place it in place of the switch and try it. It had been like this long enough to destroy the ign. switch as well. The high amp load through the ign. switch will melt the contacts and cause a faulty ing. switch. This is probably the the reason the one I worked on had the entire start circut bypassed. Either way, if the amp. meter is pegging out when you try to start it then you can trace a short by unpluging components in the start circut untill the short is gone. Then that identifies the component that's shorted. Remember, the start circut goes through both pto switch's, the neutral switch, then to the solinoid. Hope this helps, let us know how you come out, Dave.

[Guest]

Here's what fixed my starter problem: "Fix for balky, intermittent, solenoid actuated starters. Fixes starters that don’t engage cold or hot due to inadequate, deteriorating, wiring or switch capacity." $29.95 (800) 462-2218 http://www.repowereng.com/repowereng/uni-kit.htm

[AmmJay 0]

Well... I pulled the covers off and found someone before me already had the neutral starter switch bypassed... Made up a ground cable from the battery cable chassis ground to the engine mount bolt. Since I just had the starter out and cleaned up the starter mounts and neversiezed the mount bolts, I'm hoping that a ground to the engine mount should suffice. Reassembled tractor, ran it for half an hour, and it hit right off(to my amazement). Well...fingers crossed 'til it's time for mowin again... It's a mere annoyance to me, but the wife bumms out when I'm out the road and she wants to mow. I'm not sure which of us enjoys the tractor more.. Anyways..thanks again for the help. O J