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Indak Ignition Wiring


proteus

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Can someone tell me how to wire the ignition on my Broadmoor 728. I have 3 wires. One is + coming off the ampmeter. The second is a ground wire and the third is a blue wire connected to the PTO kill switch. The ignition has 4 contact points with some alpha letters stamped on the back. Tried several different connections and I ended up blowing the 20 amp fuse.
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I think I may have figured it out. Someone please confirm. The powered wire from the ampmeter connects to terminal "B" (battery) on the back of the ignition switch. The ground wire connects to the "G" terminal. Lastly the blue wire from the PTO kill switch connects to the "S" (starter) terminal. That leaves one terminal with a "C" which I don't know what it stands for.
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The only thing I can think of for "C" would be "coil". If so, you have a switch meant for battery ignition. What you need is a switch for a magneto system. The sure way to tell is to connect an ohmmeter set to "diode test" (continuity/buzzer). Connect one lead to the "B" (battery) terminal, and the other to the "C" terminal. Turn the switch to the "on" position, and if you have continuity (buzzer on), you have a battery ignition type switch. If you don't have a meter, you can use a self-powered test light (if the light come on when the switch is turned on, battery ignition). You should use a switch that has "B" (connects to the ammmeter), "G" (connects to ground), "M" (connect to the kill wire from the magneto), and "S" (connects to the start terminal on the solenoid thru your PTO safety switch). You'll also likely have an "A" (accessory) or "L" (load/light). Assuming you have a seperate switch for your headlights (and you actually HAVE lights), you will want a three position switch (ign off-ign on-start). They do make a four position which allows you to turn on the lights with the key switch (ign off-lights/ign on-ign only on-start).
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Thanks JR and Clyde. I know the switch is the original and works well. I made the mistake of disconnecting the leads without writing them down. Clyde, where did you get the diagram? I'm a bit confused now because it looks like the "B" terminal is grounded and the "S" terminal is getting power. Looking at the back of my switch I have two horizontal terminals which are side by side in the upper half. One horizontal terminal in the bottom half and one vertical terminal on the right side of the back of the switch. (Tried pasting a picture but forum rules won't allow). The horizontal on the bottom and the vertical on the right have continuity when the switch is in the ON or START position. The top two don't have continuity at all.
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Joe, if you go here: [url]http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/techpubsearch.php[/url] and enter 990765 or 990577 you can get the manuals for your tractor (the model number on your tractor should be 765 or 577). I think that's where I got the diagram. Welcome to the club BTW
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Thank you Clyde. I printed those manuals from that link a few weeks ago. The diagrams you have are not in any of those links. Anyway, you guys gave me enough to go on and I was able to fix it last night. "B" = Battery(from ampmeter); "S" = Solonoid(blue wire from PTO safety switch); "D" = ? (I connected the ground wire here); "C" = Coil?(nothing connected here. I don't have lights). Unfortunately when I was testing things I did connect to "C" and burned up my solonoid. Now I don't have any spark from the plug. I'll replace the solonoid tomorrow. I plan to search this site for tips on testing the solonoid before I trash it. Any ideas, feel free to share.
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This problem has taken a new turn. To track the resolution follow this link to the new thread. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=50760
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