proteus Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 I am not getting any spark from my spark plug and I've blown two 20 amp fuses. The starter turns over just fine but no spark from the plug. Do I have a bad solenoid or a bad voltage regulator? How can I check?
Kent Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 Likely neither one... If it turns over, the starter solenoid is good. The regulator only controls the current froming FROM the starter/generator to the battery to keep it charged, and has no direct relationship to the spark at the spark plug. IMO, the first thing to check is the points...
UCD Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 Clean all of your electical connections including where the voltage regulator and solenoid bolt to the motor. A high ristence connection will blow fuses.
IronPony Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 If you have not already, change the spark plug and try again. Dan
proteus Posted July 6, 2005 Author Posted July 6, 2005 I have a new spark plug and the engine was running fine a few days ago. The fuses blew because I shorted out the circuit by accident. At one point when I shorted the circuit I heard a crackling sound and I believe it was coming from the solenoid. All of the connections and grounds are clean and working. I don't believe my Briggs 8 hp has points. If so, I don't see them on the Simplicity 728 diagram. The whole starting circuit consists of a solenoid bolted to the frame, a regulator bolted next to the flywheel and a starter bolted to the side of the engine. One of these units sends a spark down the plug wire to the plug but that is not happening.
RayS Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 None of those units sends spark down a plug wire. It could be what everybody above has described. It more than likely is dirty points that needs cleaned or replaced or the coil. I have bought brand new plugs that didn`t work.
gregc Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 quote:Originally posted by proteus The whole starting circuit consists of a solenoid bolted to the frame, a regulator bolted next to the flywheel and a starter bolted to the side of the engine. One of these units sends a spark down the plug wire to the plug but that is not happening. None of these units sends a spark down the plug wire. Also, If that's the original engine in the tractor and it hasn't been changed to a Magnetron coil or had an electronic trigger added it does have points that are located under the flywheel. Ray , you beat me to it....I'm a little slow.;)
proteus Posted July 6, 2005 Author Posted July 6, 2005 Thanks guys. You probably get sick of hearing it but you were right. I did some more research and understand things a bit better now. In the illustrated parts list for the Briggs & Stratton 191700 it shows the points and condenser under the flywheel along with a small fuse. I don't see a coil anywhere on the diagram or in the parts listing. I'm hoping when I pull the flywheel I find a blown fuse and nothing more.
gregc Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 There is no fuse under the flywheel. The coil referred to is #333 in the parts list. (Armature Assembly)
ReedS Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 If at any time you had power to the magnito kill wire chances are you have fried the mag coil. These coils will short out in a hurry. I think almost everyone here has done it at least once.[:0] I know that it's not encouraging but it happens.
gregc Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 I agree with Reed. The coil was probably fried when the switch was wired up wrong.
Ronald Hribar Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 I'm not the one to explain this clearly. But will give it a try. The Briggs ignition systion is self contained. This means you do not have to have any wires hooked up motor in oder for it to run. So if you had a recoil start, or wrapped a rope around the pulley on crankshaft and pulled the rope , the motor would start. The purpose of the wire going to ignition switch is to provide a means to "ground out coil" and stop motor. Your engine has a starter/ generator. It takes current from battery and turns motor over, when motor starts it then generates current to keep battery charged. Now it is possible to modify system andhave the battery supply current to an automotive type coil which is then turned on and off with the existing points. And their are other solid state devices which do the same. So to find out what happened you will have to see which system you have. I'm thinking it may be possible that the regulator may actually be a solid state ignition device. I hope I did not confuse you more.
firefoxz1 Posted July 6, 2005 Posted July 6, 2005 It sounds like it's a transplant engine without the starter/generator. Is there a belt above the engine or a starter bolted to the block with gears for the flywheel? Is it a big regulator or a small rectangular one? My quess is you burnt the condensor and/or points up.
proteus Posted July 7, 2005 Author Posted July 7, 2005 This is the original engine and it has a starter/generator. There is a belt turning the flywheel. The regulator is a Delco/Remy, black metal square box bolted to the top of the engine. I'm going out to pull the flywheel now. I'll have to gamble on whether it is the points/condenser or the coil. Thanks GregC for pointing me to the coil on the diagram.
proteus Posted July 9, 2005 Author Posted July 9, 2005 Tractor is running like a champ now. I replaced the points and condensor but since it's been such a long time since I messed with points, I set the gap when the cylinder was at TDC so when I put everything back together I didn't see a spark. So I went back in and replaced the coil. Now I see a very faint spark from the plug wire but nothing with the plug connected. Then I figured that the points gap needed to be set at the largest gap and touching at TDC. Now I get a great spark but I've run the battery down. Charged overnight and it started right up. Thanks for everyone's help. Now I'm starting to repaint. I sanded the hood down last night and taped the stripes. Today I'm putting a few coats of Allis-Chalmers Orange on. Next is Navajo White on the rims and grill.
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