magneto help Please

[toad270 15]

this is for a simplicity 101 i checked the condensor on my B-10 OK points are bad so I used the points out of the B-10 wich are good. still no spark air gap on the magneto seemed to be a little tight and rusty. how do I test this magneto? Which wire is + and wich is the - ? I used this method and this is what I came up with. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41448 [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/toad270/10023.JPG[/img] 4.58 K ohms from spark plug wire to wire for points [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/toad270/10024.JPG[/img] 4.57 K ohms from spark plug wire to wire that hooks to ground screw [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/toad270/10025.JPG[/img] .3 ohms from points wire to ground wire IS THIS ONE GOOD OR NOT? Thanks for the Help

[Mick14 0]

Its good,as long as you have between 2500 and 5000 ohms,as in picture # 2,I'd go back to the condenser as the likely problem.

[firefoxz1 4]

How are you turning it over? From the pics it looks like your air gap is to much?

[Roy 0]

? I'm am not familiar with that style of fan/flywheel on a Briggs. Which models have the "bolt-on" ring on top of the flywheel???? Thanks,

[John_RI 3]

I'm with Roy, what kind of 'dang' flywheel is that? I think your measurements indicate the coil is OK but you may want to check the air gap between the coil & flywheel magnet. It should be 0.010" to 0.014". What does the flywheel cover for that engine look like?

[dhardin 0]

I agree the air gap on the flywheel looks like it might be the problem. One tip, set it like John has stated but check to see if the main baering on the fly wheel end of the crank dose not have any play in it. I did not, I set my air gap got plenty of spark as i turned it over on the bench and put it all back together and found when I tightened up the starter/geneartor belt and tightend up the hydro lift punp belt I raised the crank up ever so slightly (because of the worn Main bearing) when it hit the starter the magnet on the fly wheel would rub the coil. Well !@#@$%%^&&* take it all apart and had to increase the air gap to compinsate for the worm bearing. I plan to put a set of rings in it some day when I find the time and I will all so replace the worn bearing as well. For there to be this much paly in the main bearing it has all so worn the oil seal. So i burn some oil but loose as much oil out the worn oils seal and bearing as i burns. I hope it has not scored the crank. I have seen that happen. Good luck..

[dhardin 0]

Oh yes one more sugestion. Some where in the back of my OLD brain I think I remember someone told me to never paint the fly wheel. The old timer that told me was my dad i think. Of course I asked why, well it comes from the factory not painted for a reason. The paint can have some effect on the manget and coil and hamper its effecency. A lot like heavey rust and durt can. You think your doing the right thing by painting it so it wont rust but you are not. Just a sugestion maybe someone else can qualify this.

[toad270 15]

I can't find a model number on this where would it be ? the air gap looked ok but I can see where it looked like it was rubbing a little I will check the main bearings. Thanks for all the help guys

[RayS 79]

This is a 23D. Flywheel looks simular. There are different variations of the 23. Check the font shroud there should be a little plate that is pop riveted to it that has the numbers on it.