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"Maiden" voyage


MrSteele

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This afternoon, I put the deck back under the Landlord, took her out for a trial run to see if I had done any good, so far. Some rocket scientist has 'rebuilt' the deck before, changing the outer manderls to what is likely a later model setup. The shafts are splined with a sleeve over them, instead of the two bolt block on the bottom of the shaft. Is this supposed to be an improvement from a later time? The housings appear to have spacers above them, on the underside of the deck, whereas the center housing bolts directly to the deck. The same scientist put a pulley on the center shaft that is not keyed as is shown in the parts blowup. A gas hatchet will likely be employed to remove it sometime later, as it would not budge with a puller. After a bit of beating to straighten the deck, and sharpening what is left of the blades (all Simplicity blades), the tractor did a decent job of hacking the sagebrush to the set height. A question, though. Has anyone came up with a decent improvement for the roller system? If so, can you give me some ideas?
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If you want to duplicate what is supposed to be there. You will need to go to a Simplicty dealer. If you would like to be a Rocket Scientist as well, the local Mill Supply should have sheets of what they will call poly rite. or solid plastic like sheet material. Also gravel pits have under side rollers for support for conveyor belting Those rollers ar usually larger that the mower deck rollers but they could be rocket scienced to fit. If they have any spares that they are tossing out. I dunno if you can buy a new mower deck, but that would be the least stressfull.
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I think the original mandrels are no longer available, I have had several decks with the newer style arbors with splined shafts. They are no better and no worse than the original if installed correctly. As for the rollers, do you just want increased height, are your rollers worn, you can buy new ones through simplicity, I think the long rollers are about $10-$11 each, not sure about the short ones price.
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You can buy from your plastic supply house or McMaster Carr UHMW round bar in any diameter and drill the hole on a lathe. This makes a great roller but I doubt its any cheeper than buying new from a dealer. I have done it only because I access once an awhile to drops off a job that of course are free.
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I freed up the adjustment, and will have to have new rollers when I take it down this winter for an overhaul. The question is, that their framing, suspension, or whatever you would call what they are attached to, seems to be made to move when the mower is raised. Mine does not, and the rollers catch on everything as the tractor moves, with the deck in the raised position.
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You can set the highth of the deck in the up posion by sortning the lift chain. Allso i have sleaved the back rollers with plastic pipe. It takes some time finding palastic water pipe to go over the center rod. Then quite a collection of large drill bits to drill out the worn roller and pound in the sleaves.
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I have the deck pulled basically against the bottom of the tractor, but the rollers are hanging several inches below the edge of the deck even in the raised position, actually, farther down than when the deck is in the operation position. I have noticed that there seems to be 2 mounting holes on the front bracket. The deck was mounted in the front set of holes when I got it. Will it mount in the rear holes? If so, this would force the linkage on top of the deck to act on the roller framework, it would seem. That is the next try, anyway, when I get around to it this weekend.
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