Serious_Machining Posted July 23, 2005 Posted July 23, 2005 Here is the summary of recent discussions concerning this topic which were posted by members of the following Yahoo groups: Kohler_Engine_Club, Onan_Engine_Club, Kohler and Onan Engine Club, IHC Cub Cadet Tractors, & JDGTCII (J D Garden Tractor Club 2). I thought that some members and visitors to the Simple Tractors Club who have either Kohler or Onan air-cooled engines in their tractors might be interested in the thoughts of others about using multi-weight oil in their tractors' engines during the summer months when the engine mfg's as far back as 40 years ago may have recommended only single-weight oil such as SAE 30. Of those who expressed preferences for a specific weight of engine oil: 12 stick with straight 30 weight while 8 go with multi-weight: 3 @ 20W-50, 3 @ 10W-30 synthetic, and 2 @ 15W40. An additional 3 members said they always follow the engine mfg's recommendations. And besides these 3, 1 said to follow mfg's rec's while engine is under warranty, then go with personal preference; another 2 said that due to the age of the older engines, the mfg's rec's are 'frozen in time' and do not take into account the recent improvements in oil technology; and another 2 said the oil mfg's now-a-days have tailored their MW products to automobiles which by nature run cooler (water-cooled) than the small air-cooled engines. The pro's and con's noted of straight weight (SW) vs. multi-weight (MW) oils, and vice versa, were ... SW pro's & MW con's: SW seems to stay clean longer than MW; MW more likely to breakdown under the higher heat experienced in a-c engines and when it does it may leave behind sticky deposits; as hot MW is thinner (less viscous) than hot SW the MW offers less protection especially as its viscosity extenders and improvers become depleted; because the additional additives in the MW oil break down faster than the oil itself, the MW oil needs to be changed sooner than SW. MW pro's and SW con's: MW offers better start-up protection in cold engines - especially in engines rapidly brought (no warm-up) to operating speed; MW offers easier cold weather starting than SW where one wants to maintain 'hot engine' oil viscosity; synthetic oils generally are available only as MW. I appreciate all the input offered by the Yahoo groups' members - everyone's postings were pertinent, thoughtful, informative, and civil. There is some consensus - especially when it comes to "frequent oil changing is a must" - yet we obviously 'agree to disagree'. Peace to you all - have a relaxing weekend ! Dennis Anderson
Scotmo Posted July 23, 2005 Posted July 23, 2005 30W for me. I have a feeling they pay those engineers for a reason.LOL I really don't think either one is going to hurt anything. We might almost be splitting hairs but I vote 30W.
D-17_Dave Posted July 23, 2005 Posted July 23, 2005 10-30 in the winter/ 10-40 in the summer. If I didn't have so much wear on some tractors and so many engines to keep up with I'd run synthetic in everything.
Paul_B Posted July 23, 2005 Posted July 23, 2005 I run 10w30 synthetic oil. If I were going to run good old dino oil, I'd run Rotella diesel oil.
BLT Posted July 23, 2005 Posted July 23, 2005 Do whatever the operating manual says, especailly thru the warranty period. I think straight SAE # 30 is across the board for Briggs above 40 degree F. Below that they go in MG. Kohler is 10W30 for the most part above 40 degree F. Don't know what SAE# selection is below 40. 10W40 oils are for the most part not recommended because of their REAL poor lubricating qualities. If you can get it started with satright SAE # 40, you are far better off. If you are looking for a MG oil, go 15W40 once you are out of the warranty horizin. Synthetic oils make for easier starting, but if you read the fine print in the OM, increased oil change periods are not recommended, so that dumping money down the commode.
RonT Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 I go with straight 30W summer. And 10w-30 winter. I have ran 30w thru the winter with no problems other than slow starting.
goatfarmer Posted July 24, 2005 Posted July 24, 2005 15W-40 Rotella in the 712.It uses a bit of oil,and since I switched from 30W to the 15-40,it seems to use less.I'll probably start using it in the newer Broadmoor,and the rest of the fleet.
Serious_Machining Posted July 24, 2005 Author Posted July 24, 2005 To the 6 responders to this topic - THANK YOU for your informative and thoughtful responses !!! I really appreciate you having taken the time to express your views and facts. One of the respondents to this topic who posted to the Weekend Freedom Machine and John Deere Garden Tractor Club 2 groups mentioned a web site containing a rather lengthy discussion on engine oils (albeit aimed towards motorcycles) which downloads as a 177 page .pdf file. If you're so inclined ... http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html
Conrad Posted July 29, 2005 Posted July 29, 2005 If I remember correctly Briggs and other Mfg's recommended straight 30 wt. because of the extreme heat in the upper cylinder area and the marginal cooling. I have followed that recomendation for 40 years and have had no failures. I use straight wt. winter and summer. In winter I shove the clutch in to facililate starting and allow some warm up time at idle. I also leave transmission in neutral to lessen gear drag. Works down to 20 below for me. I run a 1965 Big 10. Conrad
IronPony Posted July 30, 2005 Posted July 30, 2005 With a good strong battery I started my 712 at -40 in Minnesota using 20w50. You do need a good strong battery to do this and you need to wait for a warm up period of about 5 minutes before putting a load on the engine. Dan
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