10 HP briggs troubleshooting help

[john-holcomb 0]

The 725 I brought home [pictures come after it runs] has a newer briggs 10 that looks to be a Alu. replacement. I have spark and fuel but no fire, is this a case of a sheared flywheel key? The old boy who had it plowed snow untill about three years ago when it stopped. He took it to someone who said it had weak spark and needed a mag so he parked it. With a new plug the spark looks good. The carb sucks air good and the compression feels fine so I don't think I have a stuck valve. Any suggestions before I pull it. Also will the 10 out of my 2210 parts tractor fit? I sure looks like it will??:(:(.

[D-17_Dave 12]

When you said you had fuel, did you mean you can see it in the carb? It may run out the line from the tank but the needle might be stuck shut or the carb full of water. I'd try a little teaspoon of gas dumped into the carb and a few good spins and see what happens. You may have a sheared flywheel key, but I'd want to know I've elliminated most other things first before pulling the engine.

[Chris727 1,933]

I don't think the cast iron 10hp engines will fit in the frame without some modifications to make the with between frame rails wider. The original model 19 is smaller in width from the larger 9 and 10 hp engines used on the landlords. Seems like I remember some posts about people cutting the frames to put the 10hp cast iron motors in them.

[D-17_Dave 12]

I thought the bolt patterns were the same. I think it was the hoods that got chopped on for the later model engines. But I could be wrong.

[john-holcomb 0]

I've had the carb off, cleaned and repaired. And I can spray gas direct to the cilinder and no pop. I also after reinstalling the carb checked to make sure the bowl filled.

[HubbardRA 19]

A B/S cast iron 10 Hp will fit between the frame and bolt to the same holes. You may have a slight alignment problem with oil drain. Taxing my brain, been 20 years since I put the 10 Hp on my 61 Wards (Simp 700). By-the-way, I now have a 14 Hp Kohler on it and have not had to cut the frame.

[Roy 0]

The older 700's & 725's (?) must have a hole in the bottom of the frame to accept engines larger than the original Model 19. Without the hole for the blower housing you have to jack up the grill and hood to clean the top of the engine. My 2 cents,

[D-17_Dave 12]

I thought it had something to do w/ the hood. If you've squirted gas into the carb and spun it well with no pop or noise and your sure you feel decent comp. then you'd better start looking at the timeing. You said it still had the starter on it so spinning it shouldn't be a problem. The only thing else I can think of is to check the wireing to make sure ther isn't some type of shourt or that no one has wired the coil kill wire in w/ the start sol. wire. This would kill the spark while starting it and could/will kill the coil if run to long like this. A long shot I know, but anythings worth checking. I try to keep in mind while getting a mower running for the first time that there are NO given things on these. You never can tell what someone else has done to these things before you got it. I have completely removed all the tractor wireing before to get an engine up and running. Then when I know what I have I start putting the old stuff back into the loop.

[HubbardRA 19]

I had the 10 Hp B/S in mine without jacking up the hood. There were two flat spacers under the original engine. I left these out when I installed the 10 Hp. I had to put a small flat spot on the edge of the cooling shroud with a hammer because the shroud hit the frame and would not let the engine sit flat on its mounts. My frame did not have a cutout like the later ones. I only had to move the hood and grille later on when I put a Kohler in it.