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Removing a Briggs recoil clutch


goatfarmer

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How on earth do you get them things off? My Briggs manual says to use wrench 19161,or 19114. I've been looking on the net for either one,without much luck. Any thoughts?:D
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If your talking about the Starter Clutch I just use a big pipe wrench or a big pair of Channel locks....
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Yes,it's the recoil starter clutch that sits on the flywheel. I tried using large channel locks,but was worried about damaging the aluminum clutch.
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There are 2 styles of the wrench. One w/ a handle, one made for a socket. Get the one w/ the handle. Much more convenient. The best help would be a flywheel holder also. Some of the older engines have the clutches on very tight and you can easily breack teeth off the flywhell when tackling these older engines. They make a few diff. sizes of flywheel holders, for diff sized engines.
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Ken if you are a believer of torque values, get the socket type. Either wrench is a slotted type socket which slips over the four tapped lugs that hold the screen. It is not talked about or recommended, but if you run the screen mounting screws back in to thre holes, you can tap each lug with a brass punch and hammer and it will eventually loosen up. When you re-tighten the clutch , you can use a torque wrench and socket on the clutch tool and get the correct torque.
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I have always used the technique that Bob describes to take the ball detent type clutches off. Most times I just sacrifice two of the mounting holes, to use as the lugs to drive on. I put them back on the same way. Never had a problem. I use a good deadblow hammer so that I don't have to hit them so hard that I would break them. Also, it is much easier to hold the flywheel if you are using the impact method. I have broken fins off the flywheel when trying to use a pipewrench or some other type of wrench.
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I do the low budget approach similar to what Rod and Bob mentioned only I jam a large screwdriver in the fins so it butts up to something then use a hammer/screwdriver combo to drive the clutch on and off. Not by the book but nothing broken to date [:0] - Joe
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I have the tool.Its a socket that fits the clutch perfectly but before I got the tool, off ebay by the way,I would take a dull punch and hit one of the corners and once it turned a little it came right off.
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I use the Rod and Bob method, only instead of a punch, I use a piece of an old sledgehammer handle (hickory). Put the screws back into the hole before hitting the ears, or risk breaking them off. Reverse to tighten, and be certain that the clutch is tight, or the key will shear on startup.
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Hi, Note there is a Belleville washer under it and if it is upside down, it will shear the flywheel key the firs time it fires. The edges go against the flywheel and the hump against the starter. Al Eden
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