7117H clutch

[cwm1276]

I went to mower for the first time in a month(but had the rotortiller out last week). Went to start the tractor and the starter would just click. Well I had clean the gunk off the battery and must have bumped the positive terminal and later found the bolt on the terminal had coroded in two. Replaced the bolt and it would start but no hydro. I had pushed the brake/clutch in to see if that would help start it earlier. I found that the clutch spring was not tightening the hydro belt back up enough to re-engage. So finially my questions, Is there a way to adjust that clutch, I could pull the idler up and get the belt tight? Second what product should I use to prevent battery corrosion with my new bolt? Thanks everyone

[PhanDad]

Carl, You can manually pull the idler up to put more tension on the belt, but I'm 99% sure the problem is a rusted pivot pin. If the clutch isn't used much (and on a hydro many times it isn't), the pivot will slowly rust or seize up. If I remember correctly, there's a spacer inside a tube that makes the pivot. Take it apart, drive out the spacer, sand the rust off and reassemble with a waterproof grease and you're good to go. As to battery corrosion, I use a spray on protector sold at auto parts stores. It definitely minimizes corrosion, but doesn't prevent it completely.

[Roy]

If you have an Operator's Manual it should give the procedure to adjust the clutch. Try oiling the pivot for the clutch idler pulley. Also lube the clutch pedal pivot shaft. Sometimes the clutch linkage gets dry/sticky and the spring is not strong enough to actuate the idler. I clean battery terminals with baking soda and water then use the "red and green" treated felt washers available at auto parts stores. Hope this helps,

[msiebern]

My 7114 was doing the same thing. A little closer inspection found the nut and bolt used for the pivot had backed off allowing the idler to kick over a little when the clutch was depressed. It would then catch on a bracket returning to the top. Tightened it back up and no more problems. Just another option to look at.

[Al]

Hi, When we set up a new mower, or service a used one, we remove the bolts and coat the bolts with grease and all of the surfaces on the post and terminal. Then we put the bolt in and tighten, next we coat the whole exposed terminal and lug with grease. This usually prevents any corrosion in the future. We leave no surface or gap for air to get in. The acid fumes and the moisture in the air combine to cause the corrosion. If everything is packed no air or fumes can get in and no corrosion. Has worked for me for 50 years. Al Eden

[firefoxz1]

Al, grease? As an auto mechanic we've been told almost from day one this is a no-no, expectially before the cable is attached, grease between the terminal and wire can get hot veryfast (fire hazard). We use the spray can nuetralizer after reinstalling the cable.

[sandyhillbill]

there is a compound known as zinc-oxide that is in the form of a black grease that actually enhances conductivity in electrical circuits and would also prevent corrosion. We used it extensively on the electrical switch gear in the paper industry.