B.Ikard Posted August 22, 2005 Posted August 22, 2005 Gents, My latest project is putting a 16hp Briggs in my 914 Allis. The biggest obstacle is the exhaust...... I am trying to stay as close as possible to the factory exhaust system and avoid jerry rigging. I do have the complete system for the Kohler. Seems the Briggs system is the same as Kohler except for the elbow on the engine (common 1" street L), and elbow to muffler pipe ($60.00 from Simplicity!). If somebody had a good pic of the system it would help a lot. Suggestions are great too ! Thanks, Ike
Paul_B Posted August 22, 2005 Posted August 22, 2005 I put a 16hp briggs into a 917. On the 917, the exhaust exited the right side of the tractor as your sitting on it and the briggs exited on the left. I borrowed a greenly punch and put a 2" hole in the side of the hood like the older 700 series allis and 7000 series simplicity's had. It works great and looks factory.
PhanDad Posted August 22, 2005 Posted August 22, 2005 When I put a 16 HP Briggs into my GTH-L, I bought a new "Landlord" style muffler, lengthened the inlet pipe to clear the hood, and I was done: [img]/club2/attach/phandad/SovGTHL_0028.jpg[/img]
B.Ikard Posted August 22, 2005 Author Posted August 22, 2005 Bill, I remember seeing a lot of pics of your tractor-actually I searched for them on this site but gave up after a while. Where did you get your muffler and what kind of price? Thanks, Ike
toad270 Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 I got mine at the local agco dealer but kind of salty you might try local simplicity dealer $53.40. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/toad270/6.JPG[/img]
HubbardRA Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 Ike, I will try to remember when I get home this evening. My 7116H has the engine sitting on the frame with the hood off. Should be able to get a couple of pictures if not too much other junk is piled on top of it. If I forget, then PM me about it.
PhanDad Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 Ike, I got my Landlord muffler at Jack's Small Engine along with other parts a couple years ago; it was $43 and change. Same item number as shown above by toad270. Had the inlet pipe nipple cut off and a longer one welded on to clear the hood.
PhanDad Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 Ike, Here's a parts pic of a Briggs in a 7116: [img]/club2/attach/phandad/BriggsShields.jpg[/img] The exhaust outlet is cutoff in the pic; it exits through a hole in the front frame on the right side of the tractor (as seen when seated). As you said, the "Simplicity" elbow screws into a street elbow in the Briggs exhaust port. I choose to go the "Landlord" route since there were a bunch of parts to go "factory". I was able to locate the driveshaft side shield which I installed, but not the engine top shield. To me, the Landlord muffler minimizes heat issues under the hood.
B.Ikard Posted August 23, 2005 Author Posted August 23, 2005 Thanks for all the replies and help ! Still undecided on what to do-I could probably gin up something with the kohler factory exhaust but the heat under hood issue got me thinking... My 7014 had some serious heat directed to the dash tower, battery, fuel tank,etc. It was so hot you could not touch your leg to the hydro lever guide for long. I discovered the source of all this heat was the air coming over the cyl head (and up). I came up with a baffle that sat on top of the head and ducted the air down and the difference was unreal. Not sure why Simplicity engineers did not catch this untill the 7100 series was built. The other option is pull the 14 Kohler from the 7014 and put in the 914 and use the factory pieces. The 14 Kohler is a fresh rebuild and the 914 is a much cleaner tractor-but I just like that Briggs single sound :) Ike
ambler Posted August 23, 2005 Posted August 23, 2005 The shield #46 baffle is supposed to duct the hot air down and out the front.
HubbardRA Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Here are the pictures that I promised. Here is a picture with the heat shield on the engine.
Kent Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Anyone know where I can find those 1.25" 90-degree elbows at an affordable price? OEM Kohler parts are between $15 and $20 each for a 3" long piece of exhaust pipe...
UCD Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Hardwear store or plumbing supply, 1¼ 90° street elbow galvinized or black pipe. The long 90° you should be able to have made at a custom exhust shop.
Kent Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 quote:Originally posted by UCD Hardwear store or plumbing supply, 1¼ 90° street elbow galvinized or black pipe Looked at those -- But, it needs to be regular exhaust pipe. Even tried the thin drain pipe for a sink, and it won't work... I'm trying to put a tailpipe on a Kohler muffler that just has a 3" stub of pipe sticking out...
wilm169 Posted August 25, 2005 Posted August 25, 2005 Kent have you tried flex pipe from the auto parts? Also eletric conduet thin wall.
UCD Posted August 26, 2005 Posted August 26, 2005 A garage that customs bends exhust systems should be able to make one or have some bends in the scrap bin. Also a good parts store should be able to get pre-bent 45° 90° & 180° sections of pipe used to make up custom exhust manifolds.
HubbardRA Posted August 26, 2005 Posted August 26, 2005 Kent, I think the stub pipe on the muffler is has a slightly smaller ID than the OD of one inch pipe. You could probably grind, or have a 1" nipple turned in a lathe so that it will fit inside the muffler stub. You can then plumb the inlet pipe with black or galvanized pipe, like I did for the Cub Cadet muffler that I put on the 713S.
RayS Posted August 27, 2005 Posted August 27, 2005 Hi Brent, if you have a hard time finding that heat shield let me know. above is one that I made to blow it out the front of the grille and it works great. I didn`t have a picture to go by at the time I made mine. If you need any dimensions let me know. It has lowered the temperature under the hood where you can touch the dash tower now.
B.Ikard Posted August 27, 2005 Author Posted August 27, 2005 Ray, Thanks for the pics ! My excessive heat issue was with my 14 hp Kohler powered 7014H. I bent up/rivited 24 ga galvinized "second skin" to cover the cyl head with the end pointing down towards the muffler. It solved the heat issue. Again I can't understand how an engineer didn't catch this and install a heat shield on the 7000 series like they did the 7100's. I want to try to stay as close to factory with my 914 AC exhaust when I put the 16 Briggs in. I may try a muffler shop to bend up a close 90 and weld in a 1" pipe nipple to make the muffler to engine pipe. This sells from Simplicity for $60.00. Thanks, Ike
RayS Posted August 28, 2005 Posted August 28, 2005 Brent, here is a auction with the elbow that you need http://cgi.ebay.com/Simplicity-7010-Tractor-Muffler_W0QQitemZ7709531729QQcategoryZ82242QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem maybe you can pick this up reasonably.
gregc Posted August 28, 2005 Posted August 28, 2005 quote:Originally posted by RayS Brent, here is a auction with the elbow that you need http://cgi.ebay.com/Simplicity-7010-Tractor-Muffler_W0QQitemZ7709531729QQcategoryZ82242QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem maybe you can pick this up reasonably. That's not the elboow for the Briggs exhaust in a 7100 series tractor. It's for the 7000, 3300, and 3400 series Simplicity and the 700 Series AC's.
B.Ikard Posted August 28, 2005 Author Posted August 28, 2005 I just saw that auction and crossed the part numbers before I came here !!! The Simplicity pubs link is a great asset ! Ike
HubbardRA Posted August 31, 2005 Posted August 31, 2005 Here are some pictures of a Cub Cadet muffler that I mounted on my AC 713S. This is a B/S engine. The outlet pipe exits thru the original hole in the hood. With the extra pipe before the muffler, this setup runs fairly quiet. I probably should put a deflector on this one. Hood gets a little hot. The 716H with the aftermarket can muffler stays a lot cooler under the hood, but is much louder. A Cub Cadet muffler could probably be mounted backward to approximate the factory muffler on a 7116, by reversing the inlet and outlet. Cub mufflers are usually only around $28 which is much cheaper than the factory Simplicity mufflers.
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