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Briggs help please


maxtorman1234

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Hey, I was just out cutting for a few hours with the b110, and all of a sudden it quit and wouldnt start again. I let it sit for about an hour, still nothing. Its getting lots of gas, and has some spark. The points look good, anybody know what else I should look at? I think ill install one of those modules to replace the points, would this maybe solve the problem? THanks,
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thanks for the idea, i totally forgot about that, why do they shear? If youre working them hard how do they last? I was mowing about 6" weeds and it just quit.
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What do you mean by "some spark"? It needs a consistent, strong spark... Did you clean and adjust the points or just look at them? They're certainly the first thing to check and eliminate as the cause....
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It had weak spark, I removed the front grill assy to remove the engine and clean out the frame, then i tried it and it went. It;s a briggs:o) I must say though, i was impressed with the way it ran when under load, as long as the chute was clear, it kept going, and didnt slow down. I was mowing in second at full throttle. THey do sound sorta neat. The 10hp Kohler had a 48" deck under it, but had a hard time, I would slow down so much I had to shift down.
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Graham, Sounds like the root cause of weak spark is because the blower housing doesn't have KOHLER stamped in it. LOL, Tom(PK)
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quote:
Originally posted by powerking_one
Graham, Sounds like the root cause of weak spark is because the blower housing doesn't have KOHLER stamped in it. LOL, Tom(PK)
I think Graham's still looking for the handle that flushes it... :D
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Graham, remember the operation prisiples of the 2 brands of engines are the same. The points and condenser still control the spark in the same way. The mag just makes the energy for the spark instead of a bat. powered coil. If its sat long then moister in the condenser is certainly a likely culpret. As is coroded points. If your getting good fresh gas, check this by pulling out the main jet and drain the bowl of possible water and contaminations, Then pull the points, clean and reinstall. Watch the coulor of the spark. It should be a crisp blue spark. Possibly change the plug while its out and retry. If the spark comes but is week or possibly fluctuates, change the con. You don't have to use a briggs con. but I would recomend it. If the mag is a culpret, remember they might have had some problem like this before they parked it, then wire a K. coil in it and use the current points and see what she'll do. There is a logical problem and it can be fixed. If you suspect the key then it could throw the mag out of time but not the points and useing a K. coil will illiminate this also. The key isn't a very likely problem as these seldome get choked that quickly to shear them unless someone has had it apartd and didn't tighten the nut good. Hope this helps, Dave.
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Grahm take the gas tank off and clean it out real good, then remove the shutoff valve from the tank and get rid of the filter screen on the end of the valve so it doesn't clog and starve the engine for fuel. Then put an inline fuel filter where you can see it and replace it when needed. That has been the biggest problem I've had with the older tractors I've worked with that run a while then die. Luck to ya!
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I've had a case of water in the fuel that acted similary, I got 4oz of water out of my 2110's fuel tank. HHmmmmmmm no wonder someone is making money on fuel! B)
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THanks, it seems to have sorted it'self out for now. I certainly dont have a a gas problem, there's lots of that dripping out. I did take the carb off the big ten, and adjust the float and clean it out, and now it runs. It just surges, ive tried adjusting it and that dosent help,
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Graham a lot of time if you can not adjust the carb to get rid of the surging it's a worn throttle plate shaft or the hole it goes through. Try putting some plumbers putty around the shaft on both sides and see if the surging stops. If it does then you are getting too much air and the carb is trying to compensate. I've been told there is a bushing kit for those but I've never been able to find one.
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quote:
Originally posted by dirtsaver
Thanks Greg! Do you know if that pn covers most of the four screw carbs from 10-16hp?
As far as I know it does. I checked the 10, 12, 13, and 16 hp parts lists. The 16 hp parts list was missing the bushing number but the carb upper body was the same one used on the 13 hp. so the bushing number should be good on the 16 also.
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Graham, the surgeing will also come from a lean idle mixture. If you tried adjusting the idle and had no results then remove the carb and the idle screw and poke a small wire through both holes at the butterfly leading to the idle screw hole. Both holes have to be clear for it to obtain proper fuel flow from the idle screw. since it's been setting for so long its real possible one or both are stopped up.
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Thanks, a while back we got an aluminum briggs 11hp, turns out they use basically the same carb. I took the upper half off it, soaked it in varsol overnight and put it on the 10hp. It runs excellent now after I set it up, no more surging, and starts easy, THe main jet in the original carb was broken, so I replaced it with the one from the 11. It had a smaller hole in it, but Works good, now i just have to clean out the carb on the b110. I did notice that when working it hard, it did sputter, and i'd get alot of black smoke and it would die. Still don't know what that was caused by.
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