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to weld or not to weld


landlord2110

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my landlord 2110 has slipping in the differential as talked in my previous forum and I took to a repair shop and the right wheel hub had been welded to axle to prevent slippage by previous owner and the weld is cracked. should I weld or go to another plan?
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Roy, The primary reason that the weld has broken, is from the stress that is put on that weld when the tractor makes a turn. What are you looking for with this diff? Do you want it factory? Do you want limited slip? Do you want the ultimate traction of it being locked? If you want it locked, but don't want to re-weld it, then all you have to do to lock it is to remove the right side hub, then remove the spacer washers between the right side gear and the left side gear , then remove the left side (that is keyed to the axle). Re-assemble with the spacer washers going on first, then the left side (keyed) gear. This will cause the left side gear to mesh with both the left and right side spider gears, which will prevent the diff from rotating, making it locked. I would recommend that you find a later model limited-slip diff, axle, and right side hub, and install them in this machine.
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Rod, the right rear tires spins on slight inclines and make the tractor useless when mowing lawn.It is also useless plowing snow, and plowing garden.Sounds to me I would like it perminate locked for best traction. If I have it welded, it may not hold because you have 2 different metals- cast iron and steel.
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Roy, If you want it locked, then move the spacer washers behind the left side drive gear as I said above. I used that locking method in tractor pulling for several years, till I went to the shimmed limited-slip unit that I now have in my 61 Wards. The shimmed one allows wheel to move faster than the other when making a turn, which makes maneuvering the tractor much easier, but still has sufficient friction that it has never left me sitting with only one wheel spinning, even when pushing snow without chains.
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I acquired a tractor with a locked differential that was almost impossible to turn on dry pavement. I think in snow it would be impossible. Rod was able to walk me through my problem and solve it. I was not able to even mow with the diff locked.
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My B-112 had a locked up rear end when I first got going, just about impossible to turn it around. Found the diff assembabled wrong and it works fine now. I recomend fixing it right for anything but tractor pulling.
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well I decided to have it welded($25 total charge). I took it to the garden to plow but when the right wheel spins, the left doesnt. shouldnt both tires be spinning when stuck since hub is welded to differential(the set screws are set at 30lbs)?
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Simple 2010 had to replace woodruff keys on shaft and braze the broken slots for the keys for the slip diff. to work, all works great traction is very good, if you weld, something else will break sooner of later, if not your arm trying to stear the machine. Be carefull!
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This is one of the easiet and simplest to use programs I have found. The best part it is free. Most pictures can be sized to 640 x 480 size that post well on the site [img]http://www.irfanview.com/images/iview_logo.gif[/img]      [url]http://www.irfanview.com/[/url]
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HubbardRA: here is the picture of weld of differential to hub.Thanks UCD for help with uploading pictures.

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