goatfarmer Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 The Wonderboy I bought a month or so ago still isn't getting spark.When I bought it,it would run by pouring gas into the carb. So I removed the carb,rebuilt it,and reinstalled same. Now it has no spark. I removed the flywheel yesterday,replaced points and condenser,gapped them properly,even regapped the coil to the flywheel.Made sure the wire to the points wasn't grounded anywhere.Flywheel key looked good.Tried 2 different plugs.I don't see any wires that would ground the ignition to shut it down.This is a Briggs cast iron,BTW. What am I missing? TIA!:D
JoeJ Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 :DKenny, ;)You missed putting a Kohler in it.........:D:D Joe
D-17_Dave Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 Well there must be at least one thing you missed or something else wrong. Since it sounds as if you covered everything the first time, start from the begining and try again. Look for the shourted ground wire, recheck the gap in the points as the condenser might have slipped or you hay have set the gap with the points closed and they may not be breaking. It must be some logical explanation. If the points check good then it's coil time. Just trace it out. I'm sure you'll find it.
goatfarmer Posted September 5, 2005 Author Posted September 5, 2005 Joe,if this thing doesn't straighten out,a Kohler is looking like a good idea. Or that 7HP Tecumseh I have sitting in the garage.....
maxtorman1234 Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 quote:Originally posted by JoeJ :DKenny, ;)You missed putting a Kohler in it.........:D:D Joe :D:DI agree:D
JoeJ Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 :DTecumseh????? Your kidding, right? :DA good friend here is a Tecumseh fan. He hounded a couple of us about where he could get parts. ;)I said Walt, here's a phone number where you can find all the Tecumseh parts you could want. Man was he mad when George Miller answered the phone, "Hello, George's Salvage". (being the local junk/scrap yard):D
goatfarmer Posted September 5, 2005 Author Posted September 5, 2005 No,this Tecumseh runs,and runs well. It was on a pressure washer I had,where the pump took a dive. Anyone know of a way to check the coil on this Briggs?
MPH Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 By any chance is there a kill wire on the carb like on my 1975 Troybuilt? Take it down to slow idil and it grounds out the ing.
goatfarmer Posted September 5, 2005 Author Posted September 5, 2005 Marty,the terminal is there,but no wire running to it,or in sight anywhere.
Simplicity314 Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 Here you go: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=41448 The magneto information is in there, just read through it.The illustrations are under the car coil illustration.
Mick14 Posted September 5, 2005 Posted September 5, 2005 It may be this simple,,i had the same problem and after many frustrating hours it turned out the the brand new condenser i put in was just as dead as the old one,the "new one" was not a B&S,i got a real B&S and that was the end of the problem.
KohlerMan Posted September 6, 2005 Posted September 6, 2005 Check your points.....and also, just for the heck of it, try putting another spark plug wire on it, I have struggled for DAYS over engines and came to find out, the crazy spark plug wire was bad. Just trace everything from the coil and make sure there is juice all along, I'm pretty sure you'll find it, and, if all else fails, just drop a Kohler in there........lol KohlerMan
goatfarmer Posted September 7, 2005 Author Posted September 7, 2005 The plug wire is molded to the coil,unless I splice in somewhere along the way.The points and condenser are brand new Briggs parts,and at over $40.00,they had better be good!!!
Ronald Hribar Posted September 8, 2005 Posted September 8, 2005 was the flywheel free from rust where the coil meets the steel insert? The point where you gapped the coil? If this is not the problem you can disconnect coil, and install car coil and wire to existing points. if this does not work problem is in points Or there is electronic conversion which is supposed to eliminate points. You probably want to keep it original and have money invested in new parts. But this would narrow down what area is causing problems.
slb04786 Posted September 8, 2005 Posted September 8, 2005 Kenny, Have you checked the wiring from the keyswitch? My 7116 has the non-points coil and the wire from the keyswitch was shorted somewhere and was acting the same as the key being turned to off. I removed the wire from making contact with the wire from the coil and it started and ran fine. I still haven't had a chance to ohm out the wire and keyswitch to see where the culprit is. I had a big ol' squirell nest behind the gas tank so I'm thinking the problem might be in the wiring. Good luck
goatfarmer Posted September 8, 2005 Author Posted September 8, 2005 No keyswitch on this one. It had at one time a kill switch attached to the carb linkage,but it's long gone. I'll check the rust situation on the flywheel.To use an automotive coil,I would just hook 12V to the positive side of the coil,right? Negative side off the points? Ground the negative side of the battery. Originality doesn't bother me,but as you said,I've got some $$$ wrapped up already.
Ronald Hribar Posted September 8, 2005 Posted September 8, 2005 you probaly will have to change condenser, and if you get coil with reistor in it it will not burn points as easy, or use Kohler parts
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