New Engine in 101 won't fire.

[MarcS]

Help! I reinstalled the engine in my 66 - 101 after a machine shop rebuild and I can't get it to fire off. I suspect it's a wire problem as I am checking all this before I pull the engine back out a check the magneto. There is no fire to the plug at all. Can anyone tell me how the ON-OFF key switch works? Does the wire from it ground to the points box? The starter is turning the engine fine but no juice! Any advice on what to check before engine removal? I am sure the wires to the generator and regulator were reinstalled correctly. All help will be apreciated.


Joe

[Kent]

Joe, On the tractors with magneto ignition the switch just grounds out the points. You can leave this wire disconnected and the engine would run but the key wouldn't stop it. If your getting no fire at the plug recheck the points and capacitor. Before pulling the engine you could try a coil from a car if you have one. If all else is correct but the magneto is failing the coil would give you fire. If it's not firing because the magneto timing is off then you will have to pull the engine. Did the rebuild shop have the engine running before returning it to you? Was the magneto adjusted to specs.

[Kent]

Tims write about checking the points and condensor. But "make sure" that the points are set as close to .020 as possible. I know that it can be hard to cap the points but if you use a nutdriver and turn the adjustment screw for the points while the engine is turning over it may just fire. Turn the screw just a little at a time clockwise to increase the cap and counter clock to decrease the cap as it almost has to be write on the money. Also make sure that the wires on the terminal screw for the condensor are making good contact and that one has not come off. I have had this problem many times before with the points and sometimes it does the trick. And you can't always see a spark at the points to verifiy that they are working. Good Luck--->jackl<---

[Guest]

Another "point" to consider - when you gapped the points did you check to see if they were on the highest point of the lobe? This is done by rotating the crank and watching the points open up. Where you find the widest gap is where you want to take and adjust your gap. I find this is forgoten sometimes and the points are gapped on the low side of the lobe. If this is done they will be way too wide when the firing position comes around causing a no spark sympton. If you have followed this procedure another possibility could be a film on the points that may need to be cleaned by inserting a clean lint free paper between them and then close them up and pull the paper out - it absorbs the contamintion. Always check for sufficent spark by holding the plug wire terminal a good 1/4" away from ground - remove the spark plug boot if you have to. And Smokey The Bear says keep away from any gasoline spills or leaks when doing this - we wouldn't want to see anyone get hurt or burn their Simplicity to the ground.

[Al]

This could be a sheared flywheel key. I have seen them sheared the first time the engine fired. You didn't hear it, but spark left. The flywheel calls for a lot of torque for this reason. Also A shock on the driveshaft will cause a key to shear on a tractor that has run for years. Also check the wire around the sheet metal in the back of the blower hsg, to see it isn't pinched. Good luck.
Al

[Guest]

Thanks for all the advice guys! I went through everythng and I believe I had my wires backwards grounding out the points. I chnaged and readjusted so many things I dont know which one did the trick, but the important thing is it ran. The old Simplicity is back on the job. Look for a picture in the gallery soon. Thanks again. Joe Starkey