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one or two piece axle


landlord2110

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I have a landlord 2110, MFN# 990432, Serial # 4256 and would like to know if the axle is a one or two piece axle. when tractor is on lift, you can turn r. side & the l. side will turn, or pull in and out the other side does the same. I finally had somebody look at my differential and he determined axle is broken. If its a single axle it should come apart easy.
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The axle is a one piece solid rod all the wat through. It uses a keyed gear and spacers inside the diff. gearbox to connect the drive from the 3-speed to the axle. If you can turn one wheel and the other spins backwards then the axle and diff. are OK. The collersoutside of the tire hubs hold the axle in place and centered through the rear end. You didn't state what your actual problem is. If the outer axle tube on the right side turns but your wheels don't turn while the tractor is on the ground then pull the right side wheel hub and check the keys(2) on the axle shaft. If the axle were broken, both sides would pull out of the houseing.
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Hey Dave you should know.We just took one apart.It isnt to bad to take apart just the half moon keys are a little pain.LOL
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D-17 Dave: the problem I'm having is that the R. wheel spins on any slight incline, especially when turning wheel. Tire chains dont help.
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OK. I'd pull that right side and check the keys as I said. The 2 bolts that go into the right wheel hub are traction control adjustment for the amount of wheel slippage you experiance. This is adjustable by tightning those 2 bolts,srews. But if the keys are out or sheared only the right wheel might pull a little if any. It may be that you only need to tighten the tension bolts in the hub.
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I alredy tried the 2 set screw adjustments and didnt do nothing. I jacked up rear end and spun right wheel and left wheel turns in same direction(tranny in nuetral).
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D-17_Dave: I pulled the LEFT side which has the 2 set screws and it is keyed okay not sheared.I should add the right side pictured below was welded previously had a crack in it, was regrounded and rewelded. the wheel axle is welded to diff. this could have effect when spinning the wheel by hand. Should this weld be reground to the metal and go to next step?

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Roy, when I talk left or right, I'm refering to sitting in the seat. All of the early style 3 speeds I've seen have the differental and the tourqe bolts on the right sideunder the clutch belt. The axle shaft passes through the houseingand a gear, spacers and 2 keys are held in place by a C ring around the axle shaft inside of the diff. The axle is adjusted to seat the C ring snugly in the diff by a coller on the left side. Then a flat key is placed on the axle and the wheel hub on the left is slid on and held by 2 square headed set screws w/ lock nuts. The right side tourqe adjustment screws go in at a 45 degree angle and may be ste screws or lug bolts. They tighten up against a nylon insert the tentions the friction level against single wheel slippage through the diff. The right side wheel hub has no keys in it and you can free wheel it on the axle shaft if the tourqe screws are loose and the diff. is not engaged. A locking coller with 2 small ste screws hold the right side hub on th end if the axle. If you pulled this off and the diff. and keys look OK then it still sounds like the nylon inserts are worn away or just not tight enough. The hub welded on is a common thing for worn hubs on the left side. If your right side is welded then it would render the diff. inoperable locking the 2 wheels together. I think were missing whitch side the 2 of us are refering to or I'm missing something somewhere. Bottom line is if the axle shaft were broken anywhere but in the center of the diff. houseing, both wheels would walk out of the trans. houseing and fall off. If the tractor will pull itself then your problem is in the diff. or wheel hubs. The wheel hub thats welded may be some of the culpret. If the weld is broken, the weld may help hold the wheel hub on the end of the axle but the shaft may be spinning inside of the hub where the flat key should be. I hope tis has all made sence. I've only been in the one axle I just repaired on my 2012 but I think all the 3 speeds were basicly built the same. Guys, am I missing something??
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D-17-DAVE: you were right on the money. after looking real close, they had welded the whole differential to the axle housing which did nothing because it wasnt welded to axle itself. I am going to place that specializes in welding (cast to steel) to see if its weldable. if not will take differential apart.
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Roy, the setup does a good job of limiting the slippage when it's all working right. My vote would be to replace or repair the problem spots. Whole transaxles aren't hard to find nor are the axle peices to repair yours. Once fixed right it should do you a good job. If you weld everything solid, it'll mark the yard every time you turn or make it tough to turn in certain conditios.
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like I said everything has been weld together-most of what could be weld to axle housing. I will try and have it all removed and repair diff. Thanks for your advice and will let everyone know what happens.
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well I finally got it fixed. I ended up getting a used one(in excellent shape) for $125 plus $50 labor. Is this to much for a used differential with hub & gears? the bad diff had been welded to axle housing and inside gears were all worn and it looked like the gears had been held together with j weld.
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If you found one close and got it fixed and your happy, then no it wasn't too much. I know you have had several ?? from this and have been agrivated with it not performing as it should. When you found out there was actually something wrong so it could be fixed you were ahead of where you were. I'd say considering what could have been wrong you came out OK.
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