Pics of my nearly finished building.

[dads707 0]

Starting point..

Little leveling work for the LL.

Little concrete work..

This is what is going up..

I had a lot of help..

25 X 48 US Steel Building. Now I need to add the endwalls, wire it and move my stuff in!!

[toad270 15]

Sure looks easy to put up what about insulation and what was the cost on this if you don't mind

[stevenj 4]

Does the kit come with the endwalls or do you have to use conventional stick framing to build the endwalls?

[Blackgolf 0]

I have a 20 x 20 from the same company. I love it. My sunstar is very at home in it! I don't know about you, but i didn't want to see a nother nut or bolt for a long time! Let me know what you are doing for end walls? I have my back wall on but it was s struggle.

[comet66 0]

That's a good looking building! I've often wondered about how difficult they would be to erect. Looks pretty straight forward.

[dads707 0]

2,300 bolts in this thing!! You put them in finger tight when putting it together, then go back and tighten them. I am also sick of nuts and bolts. I had 4 men, plus myself on the scissor lift to erect it. I am going to use 2 X 4 framing for the endwalls, with windows in the back , garage door and entry door on the front. So far I have 14 in it, plus whatever the walls, doors, windows and electrical costs. I am not planning on insulation, but if I do I will go with the spray on type. I don't know how much a 1,200 sq ft stick building would cost, but I had my heart set on a metal one. John, not for the average do it your-selfer, but not that hard, either. I will post pics as it comes along of the walls and elect.

[Mowingman 0]

hey, if you think that's bad, try a Harvestore. probably has at least 200 bolts per level, times who knows how many levels......

[PGL 431]

Any problems with local building bylaws or inspectors? It looks like no reebar in the floor, so you must not have significant frost problems there. How thick is the floor? Snow load specs, if any? I wish I had one too.

[dads707 0]

I had to get a variance, local law says 850 sf. for an outbuilding. It has 12" footers with rebar around the outside. It had to be inspected before the concrete was poured. 6" thick concrete, total 24 yards!! I will have to check on the snow load specs, we rarely get any white stuff to amount to anything.

[AGCO918 0]

Nice looking building you have there.You have room to buy some more tractors plus whatever else you want to put in there.

[dads707 0]

Chad, I can probably fill it with my projects right now. I have. 2012 Everyday workhorse 707 (2) Both run super, One is my mower and leaf catcher (the other is stored in neighbors basement. 6216 48 in" deck, also stored in neighbors basement, runs great 728 replaced the trans pivot bracket, haven't got it put back together yet. 5008 (2) One has the tiller mounted, the other has a wallowed axle keyway. Homelite T-16 running but not moving yet. Shuttle drive needs adjusting. 101 LL Project, has Hydro lift and Hi-Lo 2110 Probably use it if I need parts for something else. 707 parts tractor. 2 Broadmoor tillers 2 Broadmoor revitalizers plow box blade front blade disc Probably find some more stuff that I have forgotten I have. Oh, the back 16' of the building will be a woodworking shop.

[MPH 12]

Looking real good for a non insulated building. About all it would be here is dry storeage.

[Roy 0]

Great looking building. You will like it.

[dads707 0]

I almost put all the OSB board before I took pics. I was planning on posting pics for the members who are interested in how I framed in the endwalls. I used metal lumber (the angle stuff with all the holes punched into it). I attached it to the bolts used in the building, then used lag screws to attach the 2 X 4's to the metal lumber. These walls are not designed to hold the weight of the building, just the brick I am finishing it with. You can see the two 4 ft. openings in the last pics for the windows. I ran into a mental block for a while, but hope to have it finished soon..

[MPH 12]

looking good Dennis. Gonna have room for a lot of tractors and attachments in there. Might even be an organized fashion til it starts filling up. how do you plan to insulate it ?

[Roy 0]

Your building will be "neat" with the brick ends. Are you doing the brick yourself? Recommend you consider putting insulation up to avoid condensation on the metal walls and roof. Will also make it more comfortable year around. Looking good. ^ Carry on.

[dcw06 0]

I like the idea of brick on the ends.That will look nice!Good thinking.

[HubbardRA 19]

I have a friend who is getting ready to put up one similar to this. I think his cost for just the metal shell, not counting the footings, floor, or end closures, was going to be somewhere around $11,500 for a 30x40.

[dads707 0]

I have never done brick work before, and I would hate to have a sloppy looking job on the ends. I am trying to get someone to give me an estimate. seems like no one wants the work. One guy I talked to quoted 450.00 per thousand to lay the brick. Over 3000 brick. Makes me wish I could do it myself!! I plan to use the spray on foam for the insulation, Icynene is what the building people recomended. The nearest man is in NC., Roy and Marty, you're right, I bet this thing would sweat like crazy in the colder months if I used a heat source..... Rod, mine is 25 X 48, I will check on what the shell cost me.