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Honda Repower


Mike

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Hi gang, has anyone had success repowering large frame tractors with honda gx series engines, either 610 or 620? Northern is clearing some out and it might be a nice repower for a 916h project I'm working on. Thank for any advice, Mike
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Mike, I am sure it can be done. Since I don't know anything about those Honda engines, I can't tell you what the exact problem areas will be. Most common problems are frame interference, hood interference, and driveshaft attachment. Fuel lines and throttle cables are usually pretty easy to hook up. You might have to do some re-work on the engine mount that is part of the chassis if the mounting bolt pattern is different. As we have seen from many of the re-power projects on this site - almost anything can be done with a little time and ingenuity. I have re-powered several tractors. None of my three operable tractors have the factory engine, or the same series, or even the same brand of engine on them. Check out Elon's post: http://simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=53404 I would think that you may have to make similar modifications and connections if you re-power with the Honda.
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Here is an old post of my Honda repower. Unfortunately a huge house rebuilding project has kept me from getting it much further than in the pics. I hope to get back to this project in the near future. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=35976&SearchTerms=honda, Dan
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Hey PeppyDan that is exactly what I am looking for, what is the exact thickness of your spacers? Actually I think you can get a Honda kit to adapt to a Kohler drive shaft.It looks as if the clearance for the hoos will be ok. I can see that the muffler might be an issue. Thanks, Mike
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zero "pinion angle" on the driveshaft, frame mods maybe, just keep er level and square, and hardest thing i can think of too is the attachment of the driveshaft to the flywheel. git er done!
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From my experience, I know that you can run up to about 6 degrees of angle on the driveshaft. The most critical part of an angled driveshaft is that the centerline of the engine crankshaft be parallel to the input shaft to the transmission. Keep the spacers thin and try to keep the driveshaft as close to zero angle as possible. Do not try to angle the engine toward the transmission. If the two centerlines are not parallel, it can produce a significant vibration. When I put the Cadet engine in my 61 Wards, I made an adapter from 1/8 inch steel sheet. I put the driveshaft bolts through it from the back side before bolting it to the flywheel. I used spacers on the flywheel bolts to allow clearance for the bolt heads. This gave room for an open end wrench to hold the bolt heads. It worked great with no vibrations.
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The spacers I used are 7/8" thick. I have the frame painted now and the front axle installed, but it came to a halt after that. I plan to rebuild the bgb for the hydro before installing the rear end assy. I also rebuilt the front axle using torrington bearings as posted somewhere here to help with steering effort. I also installed bearings in the steering box instead of the bushing that always seems to start binding up from old grease and dirt after a few years. I can try to answer any questions you have but it may take a few days to get back to you. There are no clearance problems with the hood but I did cut the frame slightly more to the front than a standard twin cylinder frame is cut. I cut it just to the seam in the frame where Simplicity welded the nose of the frame on. Dan
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