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Cone Clutch - 7117H


hufhouse

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While I was mowing yesterday, I noticed that the blades didn't seem to be spinning as fast as they should and the cut wasn't good. Today, I engaged the PTO and the blades just sat there, then started moving really slowly. The PTO is spinning like crazy, but when I engage it, the clutch just keeps spinning on the plate. I figured this was probably just something I needed to replace, since the tractor is so old. I decided I would try to remove the clutch assembly today, then order up the parts on Monday. I cannot get the nut off the clutch plate. I have tried everything I know of. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and I even tried using a pipewrench on the threads (messing up the threads in the process) on the OTHER side of the BGB by the drive pulley. I just can't get enough torque to loosen that stupid bolt. My questions are: 1. What do I replace? The plate, the pully assembly or both? 2. How in the heck do I get that locknut off? 3. Am I even on the right track for fixing this? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks for your help.
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As to the clutch slipping either the lining is worn out or the spring is bad. I believe that the threads are left handed (although I could be wrong). An air gun helps quite a bit in this situation. One thing you can try is to put a socket and a breaker bar on the right side of the bgb and let it touch the ground while using a pipe wrench or vice grips on the left side nut.
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Use your pipewrench on the hub on backside of the drive pulley to keep the shaft from turning while trying to remove the nut.
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ReedS, Thanks for the response. The nut on the right side turns very freely. Where would I put the socket and breaker bar on the right side? If I put it on the nut, it will just spin right off. Also, if that lining is worn, what do I replace? Is the lining part of that outside plate? Is that what I replace? GregC, I will have to take a look at that and give it a try. It seems to me that I headed in that direction once, and gave up because I couldn't figure out a way to get the pipewrench in there. I'll look at removing something and giving that a try. Keep those ideas coming.
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quote:
Originally posted by hufhouse
ReedS, Also, if that lining is worn, what do I replace? Is the lining part of that outside plate? Is that what I replace?
Yes, the lining is glued to the clutch plate. I believe that Dutch once used a strip of leather and contact cement to make a repair to the clutch plate.
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I've never removed a cone clutch assembly, but to loosen the stuck nut on the transmission drive pulley I've had success putting a bar through the BGB input yoke. When loosing the nut, the bar jams itself against the frame locking up the driven shaft. Haven't damaged the gears of the BGB to the best of my knowledge.
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Sorry for asking but have you tried to simply adjust the pto. If the rod from the engagment handle is loose when it's engaged then it won't help to adjust it. It just seems like the first place to look and no one else mentioned it. Dan
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GregC, So, the "proper" repair would be to get a new plate? (Since I'm probably not quite so handy to do the leather and contact cement thing.) PhanDad, I'm not sure what the BGB input yoke is, but I'll see if I can look at the schematics and figure that out. PeppyDan, I should have mentioned that is the first thing I checked. There is a lot of slop in the PTO handle when it engages, so it is making as tight a connection as possible. I'm pretty convinced the clutch lining is bad.
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quote:
Originally posted by hufhouse
GregC, So, the "proper" repair would be to get a new plate?
Yes, or a good used one.
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The piece that connects to the BGB input shaft is what I call a yoke; looked it up in the parts list and Simplicity calls it a drive shaft flange. It is bolted to the fiberglass disk that in turn in bolted to the driveshaft. Any of those connections where you can get a bar through, will turn with the driveshaft and the bar will hit the frame and stop turning when you turn the nut on the cone clutch or transmission drive pulley.
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I've had the jam nut the holds the cone clutch on vibrate loose and give me that symptom. I tighened it up. The guys at the dealer say that the jam nut is only good for a single torquing, so install a new one when you get a chance.
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Ambler: I'll order one up with the plate. That frees me up to be a bit more "aggressive" with the nut...like getting out the Dremel tool with a grinding wheel!
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I replaced my clutch this year ... used a 'manual" impact wrench ( the kind you hit on the back with a hammer) and a prybar in the pully mountings on the opposite side of the BGB.
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I have been reminded again of the importance of leaving penetrating oil to do its magic for a while. Today (about 24 hours later) I went out to work on removing the clutch plate again. I decided to remove the pulley on the drive side to see if I could find someplace to get a good bite with the pipe wrench. I mentioned before that I messed up the threads on that side, so it was kind of hard to remove the nut holding the pulley. I had the nut holding the clutch plate held tight with a pipe wrench while I used a large crescent wrench to remove the drive pulley nut. When I got deep into the messed-up threads, all of a sudden the nut on the clutch plate side gave way without me even working very hard. I'll order up that clutch plate and hopefully be back in business by mid-week. Thanks for all the help. By the way, the clutch plate was down to bare metal in some places, so the lining is pretty much a goner.
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I used an old leather belt that I cut to fit in the clutch and some guerilla glue. Mowed the entire year, and clutch still works fine. I didnt have time to get to the dealer for a replacement, so my temp repair became permanent. ddh
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I checked the price at Jack's for a new plate, and the belt idea is starting to look better all the time. Over $50! I was planning on ordering one locally, though, so I can get it faster. That may cost even more. We'll see.
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I just wanted to thank everyone for their help. The problem is now fixed. I just wanted to fill everyone in on the resolution. I found the part IN STOCK at a local Simplicity dealer. I went ahead and bought the locknut, too. The dealer said I may be able to go without it, but for $1.60, I thought it would be better to go ahead and buy the nut. Once I got it all back together, I thought I had broken something else. However, the PTO adjustment was so far out with the new clutch plate that I had to make a big adjustment. I hopped on, turned on the tractor and engaged the PTO and those blades started like I don't remember them ever starting since I've owned this tractor. I thought I was going airborne! Thanks again, everyone, for your help.
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