Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
Guest

The trick to removing the lift bar?

Recommended Posts

Guest
Hey what's the trick to getting the lift bar out of a tractor frame? The bar is the one which has the lift arm or hydraulic pison attached, used to lift the front and mid implements and has the rear lift rod attached. Has anyone dealt with removing that and found it difficult? (I have xx(). Anyway, a friend tells me we could "press it out", but I have a tractor I want to replace/repair that on. Is the trick heat? A special tool, luck, etc. BTW: I was going to sell a guy one of these bars (mint) for $40 and he balked at the price and didn't buy it. Well now I have a broken one (the keyway is wasted) on one of my favorite machines.... glad that didn't sell!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
Getting to it is half the battle. Most I think you might as well remove the tank support/dash assembly so you can get a good allen wrench on the collers that hold it in place. Once you get these to move it's down hill. Cleaning the shaft before you try to move the collers helps and as always, heat is sometimes nessesary. Sometimes you have to cut the collers off to save a good shaft. These are easy to replace rather than beat the ends of the good shaft up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Chris727
You may need to use heat and pullers. I recently did this on a B10 and a 9hp Landlord. Do you have the lift handle off yet. A 2 jaw puller works good on those. Dave is right, you'll have much better access if you remove the dash assy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
I guess I need to get a good two jaw puller. I see Sears sells an 8" positive lock jaws for around $170. Any good recommendations on this tool? I've already damaged/destroyed a pulley puller trying to pull various parts. I've found pulling a BGB fitting off is just having long bolts and steel, that's my trick for that. THANKS, for the ideas, I also need a good torch... how much temperature? Just a regular propane torch or do I need more? And Chris, no I've not gotten the lift bar (right side) off yet; this is for a hydrotractor at this point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Nick
Just my 2¢ here; Cheap gear pullers are not worth it. Made that mistake and ended up ruining a pulley and threads on a mower deck shaft that i was removing when the gear puller decided to snap. Now i am looking for a well made one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Ok, guys, I guess I removed one the Redneck way. I loosened the set screws in all the collars. Then I made a large drift out of piece of solid rod just slightly smaller than the shaft. Using a large deadblow hammer, I drove the shaft in one direction till it went against the chassis underneath. Then I did the same in the other direction. I then put shims under the lift arm collar and repeated the process till the collar came off. Same with the other side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
No heat? I've got a difficult one... Hearing the tricks and patience will help. Thanks again!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KVANDY12
I had to remove one from my simp-7013, but I didn't have any trouble doing it. I just loosened everything an use a punch to drive it out. I now think it may have been remove before and put back on couse it seamed to have anty seize stuff on it. I guess its better to lucky than good, huh.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Michael, I used the Redneck approach before I got my blue wrench last year. If I had another to do, I "would" use heat. In fact I will be removing the one on my 716H which only will lift the rear implement at same time as front, to replace it with one that has the hookups to change the direction of the rear lift. I want the rear to go down when front comes up. That way implements on either front or back will move in the same direction as I move the hydrolift lever. Quite a bit of rust on the collars on the one I need to remove. That one could prove to be interesting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
I'll need to be persistent :) ... otherwise, I'm collecting the parts to put a 3112H back together, I'm going to use a mint 3112V frame with the hydrolift bar already in it so I can avoid this headache. My HB112 fowled it's lift bar... So I need to fix that before winter. Still wondering "how much heat" might be needed, I don't have "torches"... would want to hear ideas where to purchase/find those. Thanks all for the replies...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ambler
I used a small propane torch. It took a while. The key is to have a good puller. I have what they call a large one from SK. Once lift bar was hot it came off easily, but that might not be your case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • ShaunE
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. GLPointon
      GLPointon
      (60 years old)
    2. KYSlowhand
      KYSlowhand
      (74 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • SonOfCreepfeed

      SonOfCreepfeed

      Thinkin' about this old girl.

      · 3 replies
    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×