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Rusty Broadmoor Gas Tank


The_Newbee

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All, New to the forum and new to the tractor business, but I have jumped in head first. Two Broadmoors and 1 Yoeman in two weeks! I do have a problem with the 1st and oldest Broadmoor (MFG 990288). It had quite a bit of water in the tank - I have cleaned all of the fuel system and replaced all filters (inline and tank) but the tank itself is in pretty bad shape on the inside. Did finially get it to run though! Is there a prefered cleanup method or good tank out there? I am looking to restore all three.
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It depends on what's in the tank. Just rust, or lots of sediment left from bad gas? A bit of rust might not be too bad as long as it doesn't leak. A good quality fuel filter will be absolutely necessary, however, to keep flakes and pieces out of the carb. The gummy sediment from the bad gas is to be avoided. I"ve never really tried to clean those old tanks out, just replaced. In fact I just bought one on eBay two weeks ago for my Allis. If you keep the rusty tank make sure it has gas in it to keep the rust from returning. Some of the tanks can be expensive to replace. Check out local tractor shows (season pretty much wound down now, but starts back up in spring. Best source of parts are the shows/swap meets), as well as club members here.
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Once in awhile you can pick them up off eBay. You can also ask your dealer to call the parts dept. at simplicity and have them look in there parts. My dealer has done this in the past on parts for me that would show up as no longer available in his computer but they would have a couple of parts there.
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I don't remember the names of any at the moment, but there are gastank coatings that are made to stop rust and seal a tank. I know this has been discussed on here previously. The technique that I use to remove rust from a tank is to remove the tank, fill it with small gravel from my driveway, and shake it around to break the flaky rust loose. Unfortunately, in the long run, at least in my case, this has usually resulted in a leak. If you do try to remove the rust, then I would also suggest an internal coating. I have never used a coating myself, but have replaced several bad tanks. I like plastic tanks because they don't rust.
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Here is one place that sells tank repair kits. There are lots of places to get them, but the most common are auto restoration suppliers.http://www.kanter.com/fueltank.html
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There is a product called "Kreem " that you can get at motorcycle shops to coat the inside of the tank,heard it works.i don't use my broadmoor in the winter,so i store the tank full of kerosene,so far so good.
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Also to expand on Rod's cleaning of the tank. I believe some of the fellas were adding a bit of kerosene and fastening it to a rear wheel with bungie cords and mowing their lawn!! ;)I think a guy would think for a long time before coming up with anything simpler and more effective.
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I have used several products [sloshing sealer] Napa has a Ford restoration product that works but won't seal large holes. I buy a no name product from the mechanic at the airport that is great and will seal a fair size .030" hole but it is costly. I don't like to use gravel but I have had good luck with steel shot and coke, let the coke sit for a couple of days dump it pour in the shot and shake. I like the idea of strapping it to a wheel, I wonder if I could shake some sense into my 19 year old that way. LOL
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I worked part time in a motorcycle shop in the 80s for about 8 years we sold the kreme coat that was mentioned above they also make a tank prep cleaner we had good luck as long as we put it it at the shop when customers bought it and did it themselves had mixed results. a few times it came loose in a big blob and plugged up the fuel outlet. not a good thing on a bike in the middle of the night
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Hi, Vinegar will clean the metal and etch it. The acetic acid in vinegar also will clean carb bodies that are corroded. I have even put them in a pan and boiled them. Dilute muriatic acid will clean them also. Be very careful and wear safety glasses etc. If you buy the stuff in a building center it is VERY aggressive. Don't leave it in very long and after emptying it rinse the tank with a soda water solution. This will neutralize the acid. If you keep clean gas, i.e. no water in the tank and keep it full so the air doesn't get to it should stay clean. BEFORE USING MURIATIC ACID READ ABOUT THE PROPER USE AND HANDLING OF IT!!! DO NOT USE MURIATIC ACID ON CARB BODIES. We had one in a couple of months ago and it was SOOO BAD, all corroded inside. Put it in carb cleaner and even left it in overnight. Didn't get it. Put it in Muriatic acid for about 20 minutes and it ate the threads out of the adjustment needle holes and the needle would slip threads and come out from the spring tension on it. It really cleaned it TOOOOO MUCH!!!!! Al Eden
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Roy, If it starts out white it will end up brown. Seriously, I don't think it would make any difference. I think I use white when I do things like this. It is not all that strong, and it takes a little while and sometimes a second batch etc. Al Eden
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