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Pmax Clutch Adjustment

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While having the engine out to replace the starter I decided to replace the main drive belts. Luckily NAPA had the same belts that were already on the tractor, NAPA Part #4L240W. Everything worked out fine until it came time to adjust the clutch pedal free travel. I adjusted the nut above the large spring to the 7 3/4" dimension called for in the manual but was not able to adjust the locknut below the smaller spring to bring the free travel to specs. The nut would not move any further and was tight against the spring. What went wrong?

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D-17_Dave
Check to see if the lock nut under the small spring on the clutch rod isn't 2 thin nuts jammed together. These small nuts are common on this application and would account for the nut not moveing. The only other thing I can thing of is the replacement belts aren't the same exact lenth as OEM and even with the main spring adjustment right you have run out of adjustment on the secondary.

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Guest
Dave - The lock nut under the small spring moves. The problem is that it doesn't have any adjustment left. It's already jammed against the fully compressed spring. You might have something on the belts but they were the same numbered NAPA belts that were on before and the free travel was according to specs. I'll have to noodle this some more.

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Morris
Beezer, is it possible someone put the wrong belt on it before? I've had that happen before, someone put a belt on that was close and worked ok, but replace it with a brand new one that's not a bit stretched or worn, and it won't work. Check manual for correct P/N.

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UCD
Last I knew those belts were a matched set. S  990705     Power Max-4040   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) S  990953     Power Max-4041   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) S  990954     Power Max-4041   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  2020185   616                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  2020303   620                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  2020304   620                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) S  1690072   Power Max-9020   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  1690073   720                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) S  1690230   Power Max-9020   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) S  1690283   Power Max-9020   Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  1690231   720                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) A  1690288   720                       Drive 170921   (Matched Set of 2) Belt# 170921...Length 24"...Type HA  ½" wide 11/32 thick Simplicity has their own belts for a reason. After market belts for a Simplicity might be cheaper to buy but are way more expensive in the long run.

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Guest
Maynard - I read about the matched set before and it makes sense for both belts to be the same length on a double pulley setup but the PO of my machine used the NAPA belts described earlier and the proper adjustment was obtained. I suppose there was a slight variation between the belts (old and new) to cause the difference. Thanks for the information.

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Guest
I just checked the box that came with my new belts and they are Gates manufactured 1/2" x 24". Could it be that the belts have to work themselves in for a time before adjusting? Or should I go ahead and get the Simplicity belts. Cost was not a factor originally. The NAPA belts were just available and they usually have good quality stuff.

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MPH
Because I'm 4-5 days out getting things from SLI, which isn't bad concidering, I have used a lot of different NAPA belts and will say, they get me by, UNTIL the right one gets here. Have learned to accept the need for oem belts.

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Guest
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Because I'm 4-5 days out getting things from SLI, which isn't bad concidering, I have used a lot of different NAPA belts and will say, they get me by, UNTIL the right one gets here. Have learned to accept the need for oem belts.
OK, I'm convinced but I'm curious to know the reason why the factory belts are better than the belts from NAPA. Quality of the belt itself? Consistency in length in the matched set?

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MPH
On belts that run straight like your drive belts, I can't give you any good reason. On most of these ole tractors Simplicity had at least on idler running on the back of the belt bending them in the oppisite direction of normal and as I been told on here, thier belts are formulated to take that abuseive method of use, and, it holds pretty true for me that they last a lot longer. Now personnaly, I think the method of running belts has to do with the long relationship they had with AC, you see, I grew up using AC model 60 and 66 pull type combines, and the belts on them ole suckers were totally amazing.

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StanD
OEM belts are deeper meaning they will not stretch as easily & they also ride higher in the pulleys. If you figure your time worth anything at all when replacing them it makes OEM more than worth the price when they will likely last twice as long. Nearly all of these tractors I have worked on also need the bushings & shaft repaced on the lower driven portion. While you are at it replace the lower bearings on that assembly so you don,t have to replace the stub shaft. Just be sure you take the side load off the bearings by rapping both ends after tightening or the bearings won,t last. Lastly I put a grease fitting in the pivot so it can be lubed after I replace the bushings & shaft. StanD

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