Hydraulic Float Conversion?

[Roy 0]

The newer Sovereigns do not have a float position on the hydraulic lift. I assume to obtain the float position the lift control valve must be changed to one with the float feature. Has anyone done this? Is it feasible for a reasonable cost? Thanks,

[MPH 12]

If you can find one off a powerMax you can do it. Not sure who it was but it's been done here.

[BLT 717]

With cable as your lift medium, why would you want a float. You can't exert down pressure and when everything is fully down there is some slack so your not hammering away on the ram. I'm curious.

[GregB 936]

With front blades and buckets with the solid lift rod, float would be nice. Using the spring style rod gives you some amount of float. GregB

[Ronald Hribar 91]

use a cable for front lift also

[HubbardRA 19]

Roy, I used a valve from a PowerMax on my hydrolift that I put on the 716H. That doesn't work too well, because it takes too much force to move the hydraulics. Don't know if there is any way to adjust that. I had purchased two valves, one from a Sunstar, and one from a PowerMax. I originally used the Sunstar valve till Marty told me the PowerMax valve had float. The valves look identical on the outside. Your rear attachments float already, because of the cable. You can make the front attachment float by making a sliding rod. I made one for mine before I installed the float valve. Just like the spring loaded rod, without the spring. A spring loaded rod will also work, but won't have as much float.

[MPH 12]

By too much force Rod are you referring to moving the handle? Mine moves real easy.

[HubbardRA 19]

Marty, I am referring to the force it takes to push the hydraulic cylinder. The lift that I mounted on the rear of my tractor is not heavy enough to go down under it's own weight, when I put the lever in float position. It actually takes a pretty good push to make it go down. I just thought it would move easier. Guess if it had a couple hundred pounds of implement on it, then it would move on its own. Just doesn't float as easily as with a manual lift. Guess I just wasn't counting on the force it takes to push the fluid out of the cylinder and thru the valve, when in float position. My hydraulic handle also moves very easily. Not a problem there.

[Roy 0]

BLT, as GregB & Rod Hubbard have pointed out, without float for the dozer blade you must use a sliding or spring loaded lift rod so the blade will follow the contours of the ground/street/whatever. Ron Hribar's suggestion to use a cable or chain for the lift rod will also work. Short term I can just use my dozer blade with the sliding rod. I'm not quite sure how the "float" works but want a method to keep an implement at the desired depth/setting yet allow it to follow the ground. Please remember my experience is with a B-1 that has a solid lift rod (front & rear) with a floating manual lift lever. One thing I like about the manual lift is that I can rapidly drop the blade to clean it off. Cannot do this with the hydraulic lift. I am having some difficulty learning how to control the hydraulic lift to set the tiller at the correct depth since I do not always want to set it at full depth. Was hoping a float valve might make depth setting a little easier. Does anyone know if the PowerMax valve is a direct bolt-in replacement for the standard valve? Other than the difficulty Rod mentioned with the float valve on his tractor is there any reason not to convert to the float type valve? Thanks to all,

[Ronald Hribar 91]

Isn't there a chain that goes between tractor and tiller that limits how deep it will go. I think I have one somewhere . A pair of straps with a large number of matching holes and a piece of chain. I never used it. I till as deep as tiller's design allows. For the blade on my 7117 I am using nylon rope to raise blade. On my 17 GTH-L I made a lift lever for both sides of tractor . ran cables on each side to snow blower so it picks up evenly. Levers are longer than stock so it raises snowblower higher. Ever get stuck because snow blower would not raise high enough?

[UCD 14]

With the spring loaded front lift rod you can maintain some down preasure as well as achieve float. Adjusted right you can pick the front end up and still have some float action. In the rear the float will not go to a set depth you have to do this with a limit strap or chain. On some big tractors this is achieved with stops on the control levers. On the rear the float position acts as a safty if the tiller hits somthing and jumps preventing damage to tractor or tiller. My opinion is that what you want to do is not worth the time, effort or money to chang the control valves.

[HubbardRA 19]

Roy, To answer your two questions: 1. The valves are interchangeable. Externally, you cannot tell any difference. You can only tell a difference when you push the lever into float. 2. I can see no drawbacks with a float-type valve. It works same as the existing valve till you push hard enough to put it into float position.

[Roy 0]

Good responses by all. I'm learning. A limit strap or chain to control tiller depth is interesting. Is information on a set up like this available? Or, does Simplicity have a device available to limit the hydraulic control lever motion? I can envision a notched or stepped quadrant similar to that used for the variable speed control lever. From Rod's response I take it the float positions for up/down are at maximum travel of the spool valve on each end. Is this correct? Thanks again,

[HubbardRA 19]

There is only one float position on the PowerMax valve. It is past the full motion in downward direction for the front attachment. It does not have two float positions as the one used on the older systems does.

[Roy 0]

Hummm. Sounds like "float" wouldn't be too useful unless I undo my lift lever conversion to raise the rear implement when the lever is pushed forward. I'm inclined to agree with UCD on this one. Do think I'll pursue some kind of depth limit device for the tiller. Thanks to all,