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dnivens

Vangaurd in a Big Ten

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GWGAllisfan
I read somewhere of Plastic Small block chevy engines, for the street rod and dragster guys to mockup things without having to use a full weight engine. Wouldn't it be nice to have the same thing for Briggs and Kohler?

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Rob-B
Hello Dwight, That is something that I have always wamted to do too. My problemis I havn't been able to find an engine in my price range. If you decide to do it take lots of pics and keep me in mind. Welcome to the club and your first post! Rob

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dnivens
Well I bought the motor at a good deal ($200). Pulled the old 10 horse off and started measuring. The Vanguard engine is 7/8" lower than the 10. I will have to make a spacer to raise it up. I put the drive shaft coupling on the new engine and it didn't fit just right. There was no shaft extention on the new engine like the 10 to line up the coupling, so I just bolted it to the fly wheel. The new engine has the 2 5/16" holes that match perfectly with the coupling. Just hope it does't wobble. My wife is having back surgery tomorrow morning so it will be a few days before I can get back on it. I must take care of my honey. The only problem I see right now is I don't have the wiring diagram to get it running. It's a 303447 type 0447.Any help here would be appreciated Thanks

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HubbardRA
Dwight, You can just make spacers for each of the engine mounting lugs. I used short pieces of 1/2 inch pipe on one engine that I mounted. Just make sure that all four are the same length, and that the ends are square with the tube. A stack of washers will also work, as long as the stacks are all the same height. I would recommend locknuts on those bolts. You can make similar spacers for the driveshaft. Attach the flex plate to the driveshaft as it originally was and put spacers between the flexplate and engine. I have one that has tubing spacers and another that uses a stack of washers. I would recommend loostening the setscrew in the yoke on the transmission shaft that the flexplate attaches to in the rear, then bolt the front flexplate to the flywheel with the spacers in place. I always rotate the engine till the two flywheel mounting bolts are horizontal, then re-tighten the set screw in the rear yoke. On the wiring, hook the anti-diesel/fuel-cutoff wire to the accessory terminal. Hook the ignition kill wire to the same terminal as the ignition kill wire from the original engine. Hook the alternator wire to the hot terminal from the battery on the ignition switch, if the battery runs down when sitting, then move this wire to the accessory terminal. If you do these things and hook up the throttle and fuel lines, you should be in business.

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dnivens
Thanks Rod. Thats the route I Will take. As far as the wiring I don't think I have an anti-diesel/ fuel cut off.All I can see is the wire coming out of the regulator, and a wire coming out of the fan housing. I suppose this is the kill switch that should go to ground to stop engine. Then there is the oil pressure switch. Don't know how this should be wired. I'm using a on / off toggle switch.

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HubbardRA
The only Vanguard that I have owned had the solenoid screwed into the fuel bowl of the carb, where the main jet is on an older carb. The solenoid held the fuel bowl on. There is a wire coming from it, and it needs power to open the solenoid and let fuel flow into the carb. It shuts off fuel flow when the ignition is turned off.

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