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Brucep

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Brucep
I had the dash, fuel tank and battery out to clean up and paint under there and I wired everything back just like the book says and now my amp gauge reads negative and my lights don't seem like they are as bright as they used to be. Some of the wireing didn't apear to be original when I was doing it because some things were different than what the book says. Like wire colors. Got me stumped!

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Brucep
I used this diagram in this manual wich is the operators manual. Page 33. http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_100_3029_00_AT_S.pdf The difference between me and the manual is my ignition switch has an L at the one terminal that the book has an A at. I have the diagram from this manual also, wich is the parts manual, page 38. http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_400_495_02_LT_S.pdf I also have the actual Large Frame Garden Tractors Service and Repairs Manual for Sovereign, Landlord, Baron, 7000and 7100 Models wich came from Simplicity. Haven't found this book to be of much use because it seems to be inconsistant with other Technical Publications from the site and it doesn't give the info specific to my model number. My tractor is a 7016G MFG#1690423 If I swap the wires to the ammeter it does read + but that isn't the way the book says to connect the wires. There are several drawings and some are different than others. Also some give the wire colors and others do not.

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Roy
If amp meter reads backwards with engine running it is either wired wrong of the generator/alternator is not charging. Which way does it read if you turn the lights on? Should show "-" with the lights on and engine not running.

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Brucep
I have an alternator and the lights don't come on if the engine isn't running. I swaped the wires on the ammeter so it shows just a touch to the + side when running now like it did befor I tore it down to paint. But I knew it would. It just isn't the way the books show. I took the battery and fuel tank back out now and am in the process of checking the wires again. Just to make sure I am correct with the book except for the ammeter. I'm useing a multimeter to check continuity between the ends of each wire and the ignition switch, sfety switchs and toggle switchs as well as the AC and DC wires.

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Brucep
Well I checked the wireing over and over all day and it is just how they say to do it. Although there is nothing that really expains the AC and DC wires from the engine other than one is for chargeing (DC) and the other is for lighting (AC). They tell you where they go but that's it. The head light switch shows continuity across it when in the on or off position and it coinsides with the points opening and closeing which makes sense that everything would be a complete circut when they are closed but then why are you able to turn the lights off. Also the ammeter is connected the right way. I'm stumped. It's probably a simple thing but it's got me so far.

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