MPH 12 Posted December 21, 2005 Will brass bushing take the abuse the front ends get on these tractors? Like for the center pivot and the drag link. All I could find locally and I AIN'T driving to Fairbanks right before Christmas to see if the Cat dealer has any steel ones. Gonna try to put a zerk on the center pivot. Thanks for opinions. Tight fitting hey Mike, took your word for it. as there wasn't a round hole in anything to do with the steering on the B-112, it took some doing. Just in case someone else is tired of chasing thier steering wheel around the yard I photoed the steps I did today. Cutting bushings to length 'Milling' them smooth Naw, this ain't cutting it, these carpentry tools are good for something, went and got my planner blade sharpener. Boring drag link to 3/4 inch Reamming axle pivot hole to 1 inch. Was 15/16 at worst spot Reammer in 3/8's drill. Don't have any 1 inch bits for steel. results If you can't get one bushing to do it, use two. This is a 1/2 in to 3/4 pressed inside a 3/4 to 1 inch Drilled the block out to 5/8, may have to take it out to 11/16 because I don't remember if they have a bushing 1/2 to 5/8. pressed new spindal bushings in Someone welded the reinforcing plate and the angle iron that holds the rear yoke, least they could have matched the holes, they were about 1/3 off, bolts had to thread through them. Hole misaligment doesn't show too good after I ground the angle iron off I reammed it to a round 7/8. I cut the bushing off flush after the pic. Good reason to put thrust bearing under your spindals. This grove might be pushing 1/16 in deep, washers worn down into it. No offense ment to any real machinist in the group by my subject title:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tractormike 0 Posted December 21, 2005 Marty, If you can get everything tightened up with the brass bushings I would think they would last quite a while. If the bushings are still loose in the holes they may get beat enough from the slop of the part they may start to mushroom and crack. Just an old farm boys opinion. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
comet66 0 Posted December 22, 2005 I would think the brass bushings will have an acceptable life span. While of course sacrificing themselvs, and extending the usable life of the original parts. Nice work Marty, and as always some great pictures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roy 0 Posted December 22, 2005 Good show Marty. Except the reamers that I lack I could do what you have done and need to do so on my 7013S front spindles. Thanks, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
john-holcomb 0 Posted December 22, 2005 Nice job Marty, I reconend AMPCO 18 bushings, which is a 990 series aluma bronze. harder than oil lite or brass and self lubricating. I buy them 2" long and stock then to cut to whatever I need. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AGCO918 0 Posted December 22, 2005 As always you have some nice pictures.Hope everything works ok for you.Looks like you should be in bussiness for awhile with all the work you had to do. Like the Allis Chalmers clock you have on the wall. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sandy_Lake_Imp 2 Posted December 22, 2005 Yea, nice clock! tick-tick-tick :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PGL 431 Posted December 22, 2005 Even if they wear faster, it should be much easier to replace if you monitor and catch them in time. Looks good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnmonkey 4 Posted December 22, 2005 Lets see, MPH (miles per hour) and Fastpaul, maybe if I change my name to LightingJohn, I could get thing done as quick. Right now I'm SloooooowwwJooohhhnnnn. JH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted December 22, 2005 Yea, nice clock! tick-tick-tick :) TOCK:) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris727 1,934 Posted December 24, 2005 Its amazing how worn the steering can get on these machines. When I got my 700, the guy must have been using it with the back of the wishbone broke off the front axle, the steering was terrible and the deck moved left to right when you would steer. I rebuilt my B110's steering last year, I used a new bronze bushing in the front axle pivot, I think I had to cut it down. I know the bushing I got for the 700 was 2". I've been lucky enough so far that new bushings and bolts fix the problem sufficiently, no welding or machining required. As for the welded angle bracket, my B10 has that too. I know that the bolts for the rear bracket have a tendency to loosen and the only way you can get accest to tighten them is by removing the engine, so the weld fixes that problem by holding the braket in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted December 24, 2005 " I know that the bolts for the rear bracket have a tendency to loosen" Thanks for that tip Chris, maybe I'll spot the bolt heads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boney 0 Posted December 24, 2005 nice work Marty :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted December 24, 2005 Marty, Steel on steel will wear faster than brass on steel if not constantly lubricated. I would say that the brass bushings should last quite a while. At least most of the wear should be in the brass bushing and steel should survive with little wear. Regular lubrication will help keep the wear down. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted December 25, 2005 Drilled a small hole down through the fnt axle and up trough the block and installed grease zerks. Hope that helps a little. Also welded 2 1/2 x 2 1/2 by half inch thick plate on the front of the axle then drilled 1/2 hole in it to give a little wider surface area for the pivot point. Think the new paint, 2 days old, is had all the cure time it's gonna get today. Time to put pieces back together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites