Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
4xbill

AC 720 - Shouldn't the starter be bolted in?

Recommended Posts

4xbill
I was fortunate enough to recently aquire an AC 720 with a Front End Loader(700) and two extra engines for $1,500 (please say "Wow, great deal", so I can convince the wife $1500 for a non running tractor is good. Anyway, onto the starter. It had a new battery and the starter was engaging but not cranking. So I gave it a few taps with a small hammer. Still nothing. That battery cable looked rough, so I gave it a little tug and the whole starter moved??? Now I'm confused because I am used to working on cars and the starters are attached to the bell housing or block... blah, blah, blah. After pulling the cable, I turn the key and it canks, I do this a couple times and it stops cranking. So I give the cable another tug. I turn the key and it cranks. But this time it is arcing [:0] to the flywheel. At this point I stop and go to plan B, simpletractors.com. First question, The starter should be bolted in somehow, ? yes? #2 I am assuming I have to pull the motor out to work on the starter(ie. bolt it on and replace the cable), yes? and #3 How do I get the belt off the front PTO?? Sorry to be long winded. Any and all advice will be appreciated? I'm new to the tractor life, but not to mechanics? So feel free to be long winded Back. Thanks Again and Happy New Year!8D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
clyde
Welcome to the club Bill. Others will respond to your questions better than I can. The starter definitely should be bolted in but I don't know the 720. I think we'll all agree - WOW, GREAT DEAL!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
comet66
WOW!! WHAT A GREAT DEAL!!! Welcome Bill!! There are several people here that are very familiar with the p-max, and they will be along shortly to answer any and all questions you may have. However...In my some what limited experience...I's say the starter needs to be bolted to the engine.;);) You may have gotten a better deal than you thought. If a loose starter is why the PO sole it.:D:D:D:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4xbill
Thanks, for the replies so far. Pictures are coming right after the monsoon here in the northeast stops. I finally have a day off(and the kids have school). I get my "chores" done, start working on the tractor and 5 mins later it starts raining.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JP
Hi Bill, WELCOME to the 'fray'!! Congrats on your purchase!! Did you use a mask or farm the 'job' off to your cousin 'Vinny'? LOL! Yep, starter should be bolted solid. Actually engagement is an important factor to the alignment & performance of the starter. The only wany to work on the starter (unfortunatly) is pulling the motor. Flywheel removal helps reduce the use of colorful metaphors in accessing the bolts too (LOL). The front PTO belt should have a tensioner by the loader pump that should free up the belt for removal. You started the New Year out RIGHT! This club offers a plethora of information & experience for these tractors. Keep us posted on your progress! Like John sez, Film! Give us film!! JP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
eagle5473
Yep should be bolted in , and the engine needs to come out...You will need some sort of overhead hoist to get that bad boy out as it is quite heavy.... And yes that is a steal...the loader alone can go for $1500 and each engine $400-500 and the tractor another $1500-2000 if not running.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Having gone through a similar situation, recent 9020 purchase and subsequent starter problems, this is a perfect post for me to answer. Here's a list of my recommendations in order of importance. Subscribe to this forum for the extra information available through membership. Early on members here suggested it would be the best $10 spent. They were correct. Obtain copies of the Repair Manual, Parts Manual and Onan Service Manual. The Repair Manual is available from the manufacturer for a small fee. The Parts Manual is available as a free download from the manufacturer's website. The Onan Service Manual can be had from members here in PDF. Get to know member JP. Besides being an excellent resource for information he also has many of the parts you'll probably need at reasonable prices. The annual Christmas cards are a hoot too. That's it for the list. The rest including detailed information directed to your starter problem is contained therein. The Repair Manual especially will provide step by step instructions on how to remove the engine, etc. The only problem that I had to address separately was solved by Al Eden's ignition relay kit. I highly recommend it for solving the intermittent starter problem. Lastly, I would recommend replacing the main drive belts (with Simplicity's of course) and pivot arm bearings. There's also a bushing on the arm to lubricate as well. All of these things are done much easier while the engine is out. Oh, before I forget. I think JP meant to say that the flywheel cover instead of the flywheel itself should be removed to access the starter bolts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MPH
You already got all the info you need as to your starter, that heavy hummer has got to come out. Good price you paid for the loader you got, better yet the guy threw the tractor in with the deal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dhardin
Cant help you much with the 720 much. Looks at your not running tractor this way, if it was running you might not have been able to aford it. Most likely the guy that had it befor you just did not or could not take the time to fix a small but difficult repair. Hopefully that all it will need. A good find welcome to the club, and by the way there are not bad questions here...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
The parts and repair Manuals both can be downloaded free.
Parts Manual - yes Repair Manual - no At least according to http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/techpubsearch.php#start and the last time I checked with Simplicity. Type in 169072 for the Mfg. number, which is the one for my 9020.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
gregc
quote:
Originally posted by Beeser
quote:
Originally posted by UCD
The parts and repair Manuals both can be downloaded free.
Parts Manual - yes Repair Manual - no At least according to http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/techpubsearch.php#start and the last time I checked with Simplicity. Type in 169072 for the Mfg. number, which is the one for my 9020.
Steve, You've just got to know how to find things. Read this topic: http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=32436 This is the link to the Repair Manual: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_500_504_00_LT_SA.pdf

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
I stand corrected. The publications department at Simplicity said the Repair Manual was only available through them in printed format. And I took their word for it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Maynard - You know more than just a few things. In this case, one more than me. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
JP was correct in stateing that it's MUCH easier to remove the flywheel to access the starter bolts. As for the cranking, the starter grounds through the hard mounting to the block. THis is true for most any automotive style starter. This would probably indicate why it's intermitant. While you have it out and apart, check the nose and houseing of the strater and the mounting plate that adapts it to the bloxk for odd wear and distortion from being loose. If any of it is worn like dished out or simular then tightening would most likely not last long and it come back loose. Smooth straight edges are in order for long service. This isn't something you will want to do very often. As for removeing the engine, if you have the rear PTO option it will bolt to the drive pulley on the front of the engine through a flex disc. I would recomend removeing the 2 bolts the hold the flex disc to the pulley and slide it towards the rear of the tractor. You'll have to pull these bolts to remove the pulley and flywheel later anyway. Remove the belly pan cover if it's still there and by depressing the clutch pedal fully you should be able to slip the inner belt off towards the engine and the outer belt the other way away from the tractor. Doing this will spitt the belts each way leaving one around the tractor clutch pulley and the other looped over the engine pulley releasing them from holding the engine in the tractor. Pop out the bolts from the frame, disconnecting the throttle and choke cables and the gas lines and a couple of electrical plugs and hoist the engine out. Seems like a lot, but I have it dwn to about a 20 minuet job to pull a CCKB out of these tractors now. Knowing what to get out of the way to start with ussully helps. Hope this helps out. Sorry to be so long winded, I wasn't busy at the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
JP was correct in stateing that it's MUCH easier to remove the flywheel to access the starter bolts.
I've removed the starter on my Pmax 3 times recently trying to chase down starter problems and never once was it necessary to remove the flywheel. It doesn't even come close to interferring with the task. The flywheel cover does have to come off though. At least that has been my experience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by Beeser
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
JP was correct in stateing that it's MUCH easier to remove the flywheel to access the starter bolts.
I've removed the starter on my Pmax 3 times recently trying to chase down starter problems and never once was it necessary to remove the flywheel. It doesn't even come close to interferring with the task. The flywheel cover does have to come off though. At least that has been my experience.
didn't say it was necessary, just MUCH EASIER to get to everything. This includes the ability to inspect all the surfaces to insure for proper mounting and durability. This isn't a remark directed at you. This is some basic instructions based on MY numerous years of experience. If your experience is different and satisfies your needs then fine. Your tractor is running now. My reply was my attempt to get Bill's tractor running as quickly as possible with as good a level of trouble shooting depth as I could offer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • 9934059
    • PGL
    • jwbegor
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. Andust
      Andust
    2. Noly
      Noly
      (70 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • SonOfCreepfeed

      SonOfCreepfeed

      Thinkin' about this old girl.

      · 3 replies
    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×