7016 Help?

[nrallen 0]

I was blowing snow 2 days ago, and decided to put the blade on the back. I shut it off to do this and when I went to start it I got nothing, not even a click, totally dead. I checked the battery connections, they are good and tight and the battery is fully charged. It ran fine when I shut it off. For two days I have been checking things and trying to figure it out, but I am terrible at electrical problems. How do you check the switch? or the coil? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Neil

[Ronald Hribar 91]

Probably something simple. Is it Hydrostatic Drive? Is shift lever in neutral? Did you disengage drive for snow blower? Are you still using seat safety? If not did jumper wire come out of seat switch? Sounds like a safety switch someplace is stopping you from starting tractor

[FastPaul 0]

Check your neutral safety switch on your shifter rod, Put a jumper wire on it 'could be your problem

[nrallen 0]

It is hydrostatic, I checked the lever to make sure it was in the neutral position and it was so held the switch for it in by hand and still nothing.The drive was disengaged for the blower. There is no saftey switch for the seat. It is a 1978 model with the 16hp cast iron Briggs. Thanks

[D-17_Dave 12]

You have to find out where you have current and where you don't, such as a bad componenet. Take a screwdriver and jump from the possitive side of the soliniod to the small post that would be powered when you would hit the switch. If it tries to turn then the soliniod is good and you have a bad switch, broken wire or bad interlock switch, or a broken wire it the strat circut. Or the key switch is not getting power. Turn the ign. switch on. Turn the headlights on. Do they come on? If so, then the key switch is getting powered. if not start with a test light or meter and trace the wire from the bat. to the switch. This comes of the soliniod on the bat. side. Could be the connections in the plug behind the switch. Bottom line is there is a specific reason and by trouble shooting and proper diagnosis you can trace out the failure and correct it. By pushing and pulling on everything you may jar something back and it start. This won't actually fix anything and you'll have trouble again. Take your time and trace it out right. You'll be happier with the results.

[nrallen 0]

Thanks Paul I will give it a try.

[nrallen 0]

Thanks Dave, I do have power to the switch, the lights and electric lift work with the switch on. I will keep checking.

[Ronald Hribar 91]

I think the 1978 model has separate starter and alternator. If you jump with jumper cable between starter and positive post, with key one tractor should start.

[nrallen 0]

The starter is one of the real small ones, not the big starter generator type. That is what you mean isn't it Ron?

[Ronald Hribar 91]

Yes. Put one end of jumper cable on Battery and where the heavy cable that attaches to the starter , put the other end of jumper cable . When you do that it will spark, but should also engage starter. And if key is on Tractor should start. Take cable off then. All this wil do is to verify that starter is still good and you have wiring problem.

[nrallen 0]

Thanks Ron, Iam heading to the shop to try out these suggestions. will keep you all informed. Thanks Neil

[nrallen 0]

Thanks Guys I found the problem. After trying all of your suggestions and just about to come back and ask for more, I thought there must be more of these interlock switches. I had already put a jumper wire on the transmission interlock switch with no luck. When I put it on the front PTO switch, bingo it worked. Problem solved. Thanks to you guys putting me in the right direction.

[HubbardRA 19]

I know it is not politically correct, and many people will frown on it, but I eliminated "all" of the interlock switches on the two AC700 series tractors that I have. I also intend to do the same thing on the Simp 7100 when I do the rebuild on it. No ladies or young children using any of my machines. It is very obvious when you hit the starter if something is engaged. I just got tired of constantly fighting these "idiot proof" interlocks. My opinion, my way of doing it, but nobody else has to agree with it.

[RayS 79]

quote:

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Originally posted by HubbardRA
I know it is not politically correct, and many people will frown on it, but I eliminated "all" of the interlock switches on the two AC700 series tractors that I have. I also intend to do the same thing on the Simp 7100 when I do the rebuild on it. No ladies or young children using any of my machines. It is very obvious when you hit the starter if something is engaged. I just got tired of constantly fighting these "idiot proof" interlocks. My opinion, my way of doing it, but nobody else has to agree with it.

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Rod, I set all my tractors up the same way as well.

[nrallen 0]

That would work for me also. No kids at our house and I don't plan to sell anything.

[Ronald Hribar 91]

I just do the seat safety. If I ever do away with shift lever and convert to foot pedal that one will be gone also.

[MPH 12]

" It is very obvious when you hit the starter if something is engaged. I just got tired of constantly fighting these "idiot proof" interlocks." right on

[tec2484 1]

My 16LTH is the same way. It can scare the poo out of you if you leave the blade on and in forward, Only happend once, now I check it every time. The 728 will get the same thing done on of these days.

[quantico 2]

My 12 year old daughter drives the sunstar around once in a while, so I leave the safety stuff in line... I plan on getting another smaller tractor for her... or a bigger one for me.... I will remove the idiot switches on my tractor... and leave one for my daughter to operate with switches to keep her out of trouble...