MPH 12 Posted January 10, 2006 Went out too see if the lights and electric lift worked on the 3314 and got sucked into checking more then I planned. No lights came on but the lift seems to work good. Oil didn't look too bad, turnning by hand could hardly feel any compresion, pulled the plug and squirt several pumps of oil down the hole from the oil can, put the plug back in after I hand spun it maybe a dozen time, couldn't hardly turn it over. Well, that got me pumped up so i mounted the old starter only S/G off the B-112, figured out the wireing, had no battery cables to use so I used jumper cables, starter switch don't work in the spring position, didn't trace the wire out yet, jumped to the top of seliniod and got it spinning. Screwed in compression gauge, 95 lbs. Cool, should run. No spark, cleaned the points kinda quick like, weak spark, went back did as good of job as I could considering the debt of pitting, good spark outta the cut plug wire, twisted together, taped it up, spark to plug. Need gas, rigged up a tank with a little gas in it, lost the cap going out to get gas, never found. Got it cranking again and she started to fire now and then, then started blowing gas out between carb and neck, tighten screws, no help, look closer, no gasket.. Time to take a shower and eat super, it's 10:04. No clue the last time this ole Briggs run, I got it as a 'parts' tractor with the 4040, that was at least 3 years ago I dug them outta the snow, guy said it's been a 'few years' since he messed with them. Whew, long winded story why I like points, so far, anything I've drug home, clean 'em up and I've had good spark.:) Couple pics of my nites jerry rigging. Spark plug wire Electric power source non approved gas tank Not sure this pic is any help, if I wind up removing the clutch I'll get something better. Gonna give it a bath after I put the new pressure switch on the well pump, put new points in I got yesterday and the carb off the old 16hp. If it runs good I don't plan on tearing it down much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilinSam 3,915 Posted January 10, 2006 If you get time someday, I'd like to see a close up of how the front PTO mounting plates bolts up to the synchrobalancer on the front of the engine and how the plate is formed. Seen plenty for the engines without the balancer on the front, but never one for these. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
comet66 0 Posted January 10, 2006 Don't ya just love these little challenges? Keeps your winter from being so long and boring.:D:D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted January 10, 2006 Marty, that is a nice looking mechanical PTO on that tractor. I'd love to find one of those for my 716H. It also has an electric lift that works too! Those two things alone make it worth as much as the FDT that dragged it into the garage. :D:D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 10, 2006 Sam, the block on a 14 Briggs is the same as a 16. They had the flat backing plate like an old 10. The 12HP engines like 112/212 had the syncro hump out the back. This should help clear up some questons unless I dumbed up again and are missing something. Marty, looks good. I know it's not your normall thing working on those RBT's but an enegine's an engine right!. I know there are a lot of things that get outta whack like worn cam lobes and obsolete coils, but when it's working it's so simple that little can go wrong with a points setup. Love them ol' points, yea baby;):D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris727 1,925 Posted January 10, 2006 Marty, I'll take points over a magnetron anytime! Looks like that tractors in pretty fair condition. Dave, I know at least some of the 14hp briggs had the balancers on the PTO side. The 14hp on my Hydro Suburban has the balancers located there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 10, 2006 I wonder if they used the 12 HP engine as a base for some of the 13/14 hp engine vertions as well as a toned down 16. This may require some more looking into. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted January 10, 2006 Dave, where is the "synchro hump"? Just need to know what to look for. I have a 10, a 13, and a 16. Just wanted to check them out. I think the 12 and 13 are essentially the same engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dads707 0 Posted January 10, 2006 Marty, did you drag the floorboards off dragging it to the shop?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted January 11, 2006 Sam, I'll see if I can get a better pic of that for you when I go out. Hadda go to Fairbanks yesterday so no time in the shop. Rod, the hydro lift on my LL is worth more then the entire RBT. How strong are the electric lifts? Your right Dave, a cast iron Briggs is a cast iron Briggs, Love 'em even if there in a Gilson. This engine has the id tag in a 'new to me' place, it's behind the S/G and nothing stamped in the shoud. Made in 1970 according to the code. Naw Dennis, that good ole FDT lifted that RBT up high enough it wasn't dragging. : ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SmilinSam 3,915 Posted January 12, 2006 I see they bolt over the top of the balancer casting. Is the bracket cut out following the contour of the balancer? I was always under the impression that thse brackets were different from the ones they used on the flat bearing plate engines. Looks to be the case so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HubbardRA 19 Posted January 12, 2006 Marty, you will have to ask someone else about the electric lift. I've never owned one. Just seen the high prices they go for on ebay. You are correct, the older, self-contained, hydrolifts also bring some high prices. Don't take my comments wrong, just poking a little fun at you. After all, somebody has to take up for the poor RBTs, since they are constantly put down by the gang of "Foot Draggers" on this site. :(:(. . .:D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted January 12, 2006 "Don't take my comments wrong," Hey Rod, NO need to worry about that, have enjoyed the humor of that topic since it was born here.:D Sam, after I get some of the caked on dirt off I'll look better but I think it's only bolted on by the 2 bolts on the right side and looks like it could be cut to curve around the crank. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites