Wiring conversion

[Chris727 1,933]

I have run into some problems with my 17GTH-L kohler to briggs conversion. I basically removed all the tractors wiring as one group and swapped in the complete set of wires out of my 1975 7013S so I'd have briggs wiring for the 16hp I've installed. The problem is that I am trying to convert it to battery ignition and can't seem to get it right. Is there any way to add the 12 volt coil to the wiring for the briggs w/factory magneto. The problem is the ignition switch will not allow power to go to the points from the battery after it fires. Do I need to completely re-wire this thing? Thank you. Chris

[SmilinSam 3,930]

You will need a keyswitch from a Kohler powered tractor that uses Battery ignition. Either that or you are going to have to use an additional toggle switch, which would not be as neat a job of setting things up. The switch from the GTH wont work either as its probably a Magnum engine and those were magneto not Battery ignition. I have diagrams here I made for thse conversions if I can just locate them....

[Ronald Hribar 91]

Wouldn't the original wiring and switch work? Had a KT-17 Series two in it if it is like mine. That had ignition coils. and if Briggs doesn't have S/G , remainder of wires should be compatible( I think don't know for sure) Make sure you save rubber coupler to drive shaft, supposed to be in short supply. If all else fails contact Al Eden He has a firm grasp on conversions

[HubbardRA 19]

I know of three ways that an external coil can be wired up on one that had a magneto. 1. Is to use an ignition switch setup from a tractor with a Kohler and external coil, or use an automobile ignition switch, and then rewire the tractor. 2. Is to leave the original wiring and ignition switch hooked upped same as it was. Run power from the accessories terminal to the + side of the coil, then install a push button starter switch. Accessories terminal has no power when in start position on the original switch. 3. Is to use a starter soleniod from an older Ford vehicle that has two of the small wire connections on it. This type was set up to bypass the ballast resistor when starting those cars. Mount the Ford solenoid and wire it same as the original, with the exception that the extra pin should have a wire attached to it and run to the + side of the coil. This wire will supply power to the coil when the original ignition switch is in start mode. Wiring stays same as with magneto, except for the wire to the coil from the accessory terminal as mentioned in #2 above. Keep in mind that I am talking only about changing the ignition setup. If the engine has a different charging and starter setup, then that will also require rewiring. Hope this helps.

[SmilinSam 3,930]

quote:

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Originally posted by Ronald Hribar
Wouldn't the original wiring and switch work? Had a KT-17 Series two in it if it is like mine. That had ignition coils. and if Briggs doesn't have S/G , remainder of wires should be compatible( I think don't know for sure) Make sure you save rubber coupler to drive shaft, supposed to be in short supply. If all else fails contact Al Eden He has a firm grasp on conversions

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You are right. If its a KT17 with the coil on it the keyswitch would work.

[Chris727 1,933]

Sam, yes the original engine was a KT17 with the battery ignition. The engine I am intalling has a starter generator, was using it in my 7013S with its original wiring. I just decided I couldn't get the magnetron timed right, did a temporary conversion to battery ignition with jumper wires and ran great. Now I'm just trying to make it a bit more permanent. The long term plan is to rebuild the kohler but this is going to have to do for now. Rod, I think it has a Ford solenoid on it, so I'll give that a try. Thank You. Chris

[ambler 0]

you don't time it. gap has to be correct and correct flywheel key

[Chris727 1,933]

Ambler, the Briggs manual describes how you have to re-align the mounting bracket in order to time the magnetron. You have to loosen up the 3 mounting screws and center the holes up. It is not really supposed to be in the same spot as when you run the points. My flywheel key was not sheared, and the gap was correct. My guess is the previous owner did not have the flywheel re-polarized. Too much trouble to ship it off to briggs and wait for it to be fixed.

[SmilinSam 3,930]

Heres a diagram I use when doing this switch to battery ignition while using the original Briggs Harness... [img]http://a1.cpimg.com/image/EF/EE/55392751-55f6-01930200-.jpg[/img] Doing it this way I dont use the "R" tab on the Kohler Switch. Everything runs through th B tab. The "B" "R" and "A" tabs are all hot at the same time. Unhook the mag wire from the points. Its not needed. Forgot to cross it off in the diagram.

[ambler 0]

I assumed you had a motor after 1981 ie no points. I've had no problems with the magnetron.

[Chris727 1,933]

Ambler, I think the engine was a 1982 but have to double check. It had factory points on it.

[Chris727 1,933]

Ok Guys, The swap is a SUCCESS!

I ended up running a wire to the terminal board to gain power from the accessory post on the ignition swith and switched to a ford solenoid (4 post) and connected the wire from the + on the coil to the extra top post as Rod suggested. I'm still running a regular car coil, the resistance is too low so I plan to replace it with a Kohler one and may later add some diodes, but this works for now. I'll write a more detailed post of the swap after I get all the bugs worked out of it. Thank you for all your help. Chris

[SmilinSam 3,930]

I'm suprised that method worker to power the coil. In my previous experience doing it that way from a briggs keyswitch I wouldnt get any juice to the coil while cranking the starter over. The coil wouyld only work when I turned the key back to the "on" position from "Start", and then it would onkly start if the engine was still spinning fast enough when I got the key back to "on".

[HubbardRA 19]

Sam, that is what the bypass wire from the Ford coil does. Whenever the starter is engaged, the extra post becomes energized. A wire from that post to the coil will energize the ignition when the starter is engaged, then the accessory terminal energizes the ignition when the starter is not engaged. This is one of the ways that I came up with to get around the fact that the accessory terminal is not energized during starter engagement. If you go back to my original post, I listed three ways to get around this problem. All of them work. I do not have that system on any of mine. I have changed the ignition switch to automotive type on mine.