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MPH

Any Great Tricks???

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MPH
Got back to messing with the 3314 tonight, pulled the no gasket carb off and decided I may as well take it apart now while it's off. Got the main jet screwed out, found it full of white crud but I can't get the needle seat out. My custom made screw drive that's worked for 5 years is biting good, just can't get it move. So far I've tapped on the screwdriver with a small hammer and an now soaking with areoKroil;. Any better ideas I thank you for.

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Orange
I had a carb that had soaked for two weeks. It was off a model 14 Briggs from a 50's walking tractor. It wouldn't budge. As a last resort I wrapped it in a towel, put it in my bench vice to hold it, and then used one of those hand-held impact screwdrivers you hit with a hammer. It did the trick. I made sure it was doused with lubricant before I hit it. It only moved a small amount but I worked it back and forth until it reached most of the threads. Again, this was a last resort and I was about to toss it because my previous attempts to remove it had damaged the jet seat. Good luck with yours.

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FastPaul
Hey Marty try some fingernail polish remover.I know it sounds silly but it works,Let it soke for a while and give it a try.Carb clean has a lot of Acetone in it also, you could try that too. Your probably more likely to have that on the shelf, I woud hope Good luck

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MPH
Come to think of it, I believe I do have a gallon of carb cleaner around here someplace. I'll see if it'll fit in if I find it. Fingernail polish could sit on the shelf in my shop and be ok.:D Maynard, should I move up to the 4lb'er or the 8?? Got lots of soaking time, the rest of the tractor is a long ways from ready for a permanit carb. Had it running good last night on aJB weld patched carb but think I'll pull the motor just to clean out around the flywheel. Had some old foxtail blowing out when it was running. Thanks guys.

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ReedS
I have saved a couple carb bodys with the easyout method. While this method isn't the preferred removal method it does work as a last resort (for me anyway). Use a drill bit the same size or smaller than the tube on the jet and drill through or nearly through the jet. Having been a mechanic for many years I have a set of fluted easyouts (not tapered) these easyouts consist of the easyout and a hexed shape piece (for use with a wrench) that fits the easyout. After tapping the easyout into the drilled out jet between the the heat generated by drilling and the extra leverage from the wrench I've been able to remove a couple of jets. A left handed drill bit may also remove the jet. If you've got the time I'd let it soak as long as possible.

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john-holcomb
I have found that galvanic reaction between the aluminum carb and the brass seat can be pretty tough. If all else failes try Coke [the drink kind not the other]LOL. The acid will eat the white rust but is hard on the aluminum. Ospho will also work but again hard on the aluminum. the best cutting solvent for aluminum is plain old Kerosene you will find if you look at the ingredents of most penetrants they are mostly kerosene. Please be carefull with the carb cleaner because if any of you remember it almost killed me. John

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dhardin
Last resort I have used was the barbaque, yes the out door cooker. Heat it for about 30 to 45 min. at 400 degress (on high). Best use welding gloves to pick it up and hold the carb in a vice (just a sadle to sit in, not tightend) or in a large angle iron to get some good pressuer to hold carb body as your turn the screw. The soft carb body will expand real fast, and once you have it broke loose keep turning till its out. One other tool I have used and especually after heating the carb is the Briggs tool #19245 its a tap (5/16 x32) to clean out the threads befor and after the nozle has come out. Briggs is the only place i have been able to find this tap, its about 8 to $10. You get a 1/4 x32 and the 5/16 x32 in a set. Reason being after you heat the carb it can very esaly be worped or ditorted, as well the threads will alway be tight afterward. Run the tap in and frees it up, you sould not see a large amount of chips as you clean it out. If you do you may have heated it to long and or when holding the carb body worped/distorted it. Also meaning it may not stop leaking after you reasembale. Like i siad its sould be your last resoet. other tips 1. Don't use the kitchen stove, the wife might object to the smell 2. Make sure it drained of all gas, or you might have to go looking for it in the yard next door. 3. Dont get it to close to the bergers and hot dogs. lol (just kiding) 4. Stand back, you might hear a small poof as the gas burns out of the carb body. Even if its drained. The guy next door saw me cooking a carb once and he asked me how it tasted. I said its best with musterd. lol

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B.Ikard
quote:
Originally posted by john-holcomb
I have found that galvanic reaction between the aluminum carb and the brass seat can be pretty tough. If all else failes try Coke [the drink kind not the other]LOL. The acid will eat the white rust but is hard on the aluminum. Ospho will also work but again hard on the aluminum. the best cutting solvent for aluminum is plain old Kerosene you will find if you look at the ingredents of most penetrants they are mostly kerosene. Please be carefull with the carb cleaner because if any of you remember it almost killed me. John
I have had good results soaking corroded carb parts with the white deposits in household vinegar. Where the white corrosion was will be pitted but the acid will remove the alkaline deposits. You will need to change out the vinegar frequently as it is neutralized by the white deposits. Not sure if this will help you with the needle removal but I have brought a carb or two back to life with this method. Ike

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