MPH 12 Posted January 14, 2006 Took the 3314 out side tonight and gave it hotwater bath after it soaked in foamy clean engine bright for about 15 min. hard to see what I was doing as the 160 degree water really steams at -15. but, it's clean enough to want to work on now. Checking play in the BGB and with the use of 2 carpenter tools I figured it for about 11 degrees of play. 4 1/4 inch pulley move about 1/2 inch. Seems a little excessive to me. Looking for opinions on what you all think. thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 15, 2006 Probably not all that much play considering the extra weight from thos runnin bourds it's had to tote around all it's life. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefoxz1 4 Posted January 15, 2006 I would say that's to much. If I needed to use the tractor I would leave it in but being your going over it and have others I would take it out and apart to see what's up, or at least remove the rear plate to see if it's keyway slop or worn gears/adjustment. JMHO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UCD 14 Posted January 15, 2006 Marty Take the cover off and check bevel gears for wear. If gears are in good shape but just warn a little you could get the slop out by adding thicker or more shims. (Item F & G) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
firefoxz1 4 Posted January 15, 2006 Maynard, Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought you shimmed that flush with the outside of the case to hold the bearing in when the side plate was bolted on. It has no effect on the adjustment of the gears at all. If you were to remove the drive pulley you can actually pull the shaft out the PTO side. I always add a shim or two between the bearing and gear (J-K)or(T-X) if a little loose. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedbarnRick 3 Posted January 15, 2006 The retaining ring (AN) that seats right at the spot the letter p points to, will allow the shaft to move out on the side with the hydro pulley the driven gear has a relief in the face for this ring if it gets to sloppy with age or wear it will bounce the ring out of the groove and allow the shaft to move in and out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MPH 12 Posted January 15, 2006 Thanks for the motivation to do it right guys. Gonna be sidetracked with chasing greenbacks this week as a guy came out at 8:30 am last week and talked me into doing a commerical tile job for him. UI is nice but don't pay well. Your all right though, don't have need for the tractor right now so may as well check it out right. If the Vickers works good, it'll be my mowing tractor next summer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UCD 14 Posted January 15, 2006 Shim as required, to adjust back lash. you do not need shims to hold the seal in, the side plate will do that it self. The shims put presure on the seal which in turn puts preasure on the ball bearing then the driven gear. Read the large frame repair manual section 5 page 5 bevel gear drive. 4. Spin the driver shaft (C, Figure 5) several revolutions in both directions while applying light braking pressure to the driven shaft (B, Figure 5). Repeat this procedure, spinning the driven shaft. Note for future attention any noticeable binding, roughness, unevenness in the motion, or excessive backlash (lost motion) between the gears. The true backlash can only be checked once the shims and side plates are installed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
msiebern 0 Posted January 15, 2006 In addition to Maynard's excellent diagram, here is a link to an article here on bgb issues. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=655 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites