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ehertzfeld

Loader on a RBT?

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ehertzfeld
Ok I know I'm going to get a lot of s@#&* for this, but I got a certain engine and was going to put it in a 700 and build a loader for it, but after picking the engine up, it looks like that is going to be a bigger challenge than I want to deal with. So I'm now thinking of my 3310V. How many of you have made loaders for the RBTs? BTW the engine I'm going to put in it is going to be a secret, so don't expect to see any pictures of that venture:D It's going to take some fabrication, but that is something I can do. Any way, let you know about the loader, and if anyone has some good pictures they could share, that would be a huge help. I kinda have an idea of how I want to do it, but any new ideas wouldn't hurt. Thanks Elon

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D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Did Simplicity offer loaders for RBT's?
Don't know Marty. I think they decided that all the dead weight those runnin boards were that they thought it might be over loaded or something. Or maybe it was a cost thing. Wasted metal and all.}:):o):D

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ehertzfeld
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Did Simplicity offer loaders for RBT's?
Don't know Marty. I think they decided that all the dead weight those runnin boards were that they thought it might be over loaded or something. Or maybe it was a cost thing. Wasted metal and all.}:):o):D
Yeah I'm thinking of leaving them off:D:D:D As far as i can tell, they did not make any loaders for this type tractor. I mite be wrong but all the one I've seen are older one's made to fit. Elon

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Ronald Hribar
If this will be a dedicated loader tractor. And You are going to build loader from scratch. I would suggest a sub frame to fit under main frame. This will eliminate stress on the BFG junction. It will also allow mounting points for the loader and the pump. Part of the problem with the older loader on the newer tractor is that loader has to sit too far forward to clear hood. And the pump which was loader mounted has to be relocated to drive off front PTO. A dedicated tractor and a completely new loader should work well.

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ehertzfeld
quote:
Originally posted by wantedinct
Will all the extra work of putting it on a rbt be more or equal to putting the motor in the 700?
Not at all, the main problem with the engine, is hight. I would have to hack the heck out of the hood. I would also have to strech the frame. Elon

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ehertzfeld
quote:
Originally posted by Ronald Hribar
If this will be a dedicated loader tractor. And You are going to build loader from scratch. I would suggest a sub frame to fit under main frame. This will eliminate stress on the BFG junction. It will also allow mounting points for the loader and the pump. Part of the problem with the older loader on the newer tractor is that loader has to sit too far forward to clear hood. And the pump which was loader mounted has to be relocated to drive off front PTO. A dedicated tractor and a completely new loader should work well.
I don't have a factory loader, so I will be making my own. I have an idea of how I want to do it. I'm going to take 4x2 box for the two uprights, and tie them together with another 4x2 box, that will run under the frame. I plan on tying that in to the frame by the running boards holes, as well as to a sub frame the will run from the rear end to the front. I am going to plate the BGB area, just haven't gotten that far yet. I think I can run the pump off the front of the engine, if not I can always use the mid PTO. Elon

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HubbardRA
Elon, I have already been thru most of the ideas you expressed. I would not tie to the running boards. Tie directly to the frame. Too much flex from the running boards. Build your fluid tank into the cross beam and verticals. Easy filling and plumbing of return line if you use the vertical beams. Use 2x2 heavy wall box tubing to run from front to rear of the tractor. Tie it to the frame in front, just in front of tranny, and at the rear hitch. This will prevent stress on the BGB. do some sketches to determine the design of the lift beams. You want the bucket to clear the front of the tractor at full height, so that you don't dump the contents on the hood. Several other things I have considered, i.e. self-leveling bucket, etc. Let me know if you want to hear some more of my ideas.

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ehertzfeld
quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
Elon, I have already been thru most of the ideas you expressed. I would not tie to the running boards. Tie directly to the frame.
That is what I meant, just didn't say/write it correctly. lol Along the frame "were the running boards go" there a a bunch f holes, not to mention the 4 that the electric lift goes to. I have many point to tie in the frame. Elon

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ehertzfeld
Well I think it's a go!!! I got the engine into the 3310v. It's just sitting in there but with a little fabrication on the frame, and a bit on the hood, it should work just fine. However, Rob-B just picked up a 7112 and he thinks it's bigger than my 3310. From what I can tell by pictures, isn't it the same frame and dash tower? The hood looks shorter and the front of the frame looks taller, so wouldn't the over all night be the same? Cane anyone enlighten me? oh here are a few pic's Im not going to show or tell what the engine is just yet. [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/3310.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/33102.jpg[/img] this is one of the modifications that would have to be done. I would need to raise the hood a bit, so I'll just drill new, higher holes. [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/33103.jpg[/img] Elon

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HubbardRA
Elon, I have both a An AC 700 and a Simp 7100, I can measure the hood and frame. Didn't have a chance yesterday. I'll try to keep my feeble memory in gear and remember to do it this evening when I get home.

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UCD
Elon If I remember right the frame on the 7000 series is the same as the 3300 series and the hood on a 7100 series is longer than a 7000 series. Don't let that lombardini diesel get away from you.

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richp
Elon, I have that 3310 frame, hood and steering console I got from Rob. If you need it you can have it. The hood and decals are pretty good so don't feel guilty cutting one up. My rbt's must of rubbed off on you and Rob.

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plastikosmd
If you need to come down and look at my L10 on my b12 for subframe ideas (has original), sometimes easier to understand once seen in person let me know scott

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HubbardRA
Elon, Here are some numbers. Just rough measurements. The 7100 hood is 3 inches longer, 1 1/2 wider, 1 1/2 higher than the AC716 hood. The wheelbase on the 7100 is 2 inches longer. The 7100 frame is 5 inches high and 1/8 thick, while the AC716 frame is 3 1/2 high and 1/4 thick. I didn't really measure the length of the frames, but the 7100 frame looks to be 2-3 inches longer than the AC716. Hopes this helps.

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ehertzfeld
Thanks for all the info guys, sorry I didn't get to any of these post, I have been with out power for 3 days!!!!! It's going to take some time for me to get up to speed. With the lack of power, I haven't done anything with it since. God it's nice to be back. Elon

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