AC808 Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 With out doing extensive research can any of you tell me if the old cast iron single cylinder Briggs (10, 12 ,and 16hp) motors used the same rod/crank bearings?
D-17_Dave Posted January 18, 2006 Posted January 18, 2006 I'm not sure excactly what your asking as the Briggs don't use an insert on the rods like Onans or other automotive style engines do. Is the crankpin diam. the same? I'm not sure between the 10's 12's and 16's. But it does increase some from the much smaller engines like 5hp compared to a 10 or 16.
BLT Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 Jay, 12 and 16 HP Briggs have same P/N and 10 HP is seperate and I think this because the 12 & 16 have synchro balance and that might change the internal make up slightly.
AC808 Posted January 19, 2006 Author Posted January 19, 2006 Thanks guys.. If the rod ends dont use an insert (like cars) whats the treatment if theres rod knock? New rod and cap?
BLT Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 Jay could be as simple as carbon build up on head. Take head off first and look for piston impression on carbon build up.
D-17_Dave Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 If you've got rod knock, and it's not something like carbon build up, then yes a new rod is certainly a starting place. The other problem is if the rod has lost a bolt and the cap is flapping on the crank I'll just about guarantee the crank is now worn eggshaped and will have to be replaced. There are undersized rods availiable and a good shop can turn a small crank like a big crank but it'll be costly.
LPH-5 Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 I had a crank turned .020 under at mach shop at a cost of $33.00 for a 10 HP 243431-0123 briggs-looks great..
AC808 Posted January 19, 2006 Author Posted January 19, 2006 Sounds good..i picked up a Gilson 14 with a 14 hp briggs...i was told that it was 'knocking bad' when it was parked...Im gonna get the motor off this weekend...
MrSteele Posted January 19, 2006 Posted January 19, 2006 For the poor folks like me, you could try filing the rod and cap a bit, being certain to file the surfaces evenly. I use an old babbit file to do the trick. This has saved me countless rods. Such filing is a trick on the newer Briggs rods that have all the locking/mating recesses, or those indentations that make it impossible to put the cap on 180 degrees offset. This trick is not for the occasional tinkerer, however. If there is too much wear, a new rod is the only way to go.
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