Ronald Hribar 91 Posted January 21, 2006 I bought a new set of 26x12x12 AG tires on wide Cadet rims. to put on my 7120 (7117) Also got set of rims and ribs for the front. Got them all installed. Painted and installed 2 sets of cast weights. Last night we got 6 inches of snow. Light and fluffy. This morning I can barely wait to go outside. Open garage door, turn gas valve on and make sure transmission detent is in proper position. Hop on my new Legacy seat, hit the key and battery acts like it is dead.Put jumper cables on battery and still the same results. Okay check oil that is good. pull plugs out and motor will crank barely. Noticed that belt for snowblower was turning. Do I have pto engaged? No !! Open up seat platform and BFG is rubbing on tire. Grab shovel and do driveway and sidewalk. I do have rims turned so I have max clearance to tractor. Looked at that when putting tire on tractor, because I have to have valve stems pointing out which I don't like either. I'm thinking of making up a one inch thick aluminum adaptor to move wheel out. Any opinions ???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RayS 79 Posted January 21, 2006 Spacer would more than likely do the job. I always wonder why everybody wants bigger than stock tires on these tractors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roy 0 Posted January 21, 2006 Ray, because it looks so cool! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar 91 Posted January 21, 2006 Looks Macho With big lugs on back and fron t ribs looks like farm tractor I was actually looking for increased traction and had added weights to compensate for added width Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 21, 2006 You mean you got snow?? Sorry to hear you had trouble. Couldn't you swap back to the old tires for some tractor time instead of the SSh%*&^%L. See, I can't even say that icky word. You'll get it worked out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar 91 Posted January 21, 2006 I got the tire spaced out 1/2 inch until my adaptors are made. However When I took wheel off I noticed that the Nut on the BFG was loose. So I tightened it up. Put my spacers in place, bolted wheeel and wheel weights into place. Kohler thought that tire was still rubbing on BFG. Took a hile to convince it that all was okay. took it out on my SHOVELED driveway noticed blower was turning. OHHHHHHH when you tighten nut it affects the clutch desengagement. So I adjust linkage and all is okay. IS the nut on the mid pto supposed to be snug? or is there an spec for it? I have big operators manual 6 feet from where I'm working, never bothered to look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeES 454 Posted January 21, 2006 Ron, what kind of offset do you have with those rims? Looking at my 26x12x12s on my pulling tractors, I would need a 0" offset. I have 12" wide aluminum rims with 4-8 offset with a 1/2" spacer and no cone clutch and I have less than a 1/2" clearance with the turf tires and about 1" clearance with lugs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al 6 Posted January 21, 2006 Ray, If you haven't ever used one of these tractors with the wide rims and fluid in the tires, you don't know what you are missing. You can set in the seat and drive on banks with out spinning that you can't go on setting way out on the fenders otherwise. The way they pull and climb is unbelievable. The only negative is the fact that they have so much traction that you can drive up a hill and the tractor will climb the gears and come over backwards without spinning. Even with the mower on. Caution # 2 Never pull from a drawbar higher that the center line of the rear axle. Tractor pullers do, but they have wheelie bars. Ron, This Simplicity requires rims with a deep offset. You can not claim credit for inventing this problem. I have seen several sets of wheels widened and the people discovered they wouldn't work on these tractors. I usually use the original rims and cut them in the drop center and roll a band and weld it in to widen them. For the 26 12.00 12s about 10 or 10 1/2 inches bead to bead is about right. You will love them and it will be worth the effort. Al Eden Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 21, 2006 I think the nut on the BGB is supposed to be tight. It could have been loose beforeand the clutch out of adjustment and still worked but I do think it's supposed to be tight. One of these RBT experts will have to back me up on this. My experiance on RBT's is I'm distracted so bad from the wasted metal I can't seem to focus on anything else.lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar 91 Posted January 21, 2006 Sorry, Took my bride out to a movie . Came home to questions and answers. Dave That is what I think also, would not make any sense to have the nuts loose. AL The rims are 10+ wide, hard to tell with big meats on. I have 4inches to inside of spider and 6 from outside to spider. Mike How is your spacer made? I used set collars and glue them onto wheel NASCAR style. But I have some material at work that is round and 1/2 inch thick . Think I'll put studs in each rear hub. Will have to bore center on one spacer to clear differential hub. Was thinking that they used to have something for cars to space rims out also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregc 3 Posted January 21, 2006 quote:Originally posted by D-17_Dave I think the nut on the BGB is supposed to be tight. Torque to 45-55 ft. lbs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
D-17_Dave 12 Posted January 21, 2006 quote:Originally posted by gregc quote:Originally posted by D-17_Dave I think the nut on the BGB is supposed to be tight. Torque to 45-55 ft. lbs. LOL Greg, the ones I've done use the half dozen bumps from the impact/torque wrench.[:0]:D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregc 3 Posted January 21, 2006 quote:Originally posted by D-17_Dave quote:Originally posted by gregc quote:Originally posted by D-17_Dave I think the nut on the BGB is supposed to be tight. Torque to 45-55 ft. lbs. LOL Greg, the ones I've done use the half dozen bumps from the impact/torque wrench.[:0]:D That'll work too.^:D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Al 6 Posted January 21, 2006 Hi, If the nut on the clutch plate is loose and don't tighten, the retainer ring on the back side of the clutch plate is pushed out of the groove. This little round ring fits in the groove in the shaft and then the recess in the inside of the plate goes over it so it can't come up out of the groove. If it is not seated correctly or is distorted the plate will push it out of the groove instead of going over it. Then the nut will keep pushing the plate on in until the clutch can't release. If the nut won't stay tight, the key way in the plate or shaft is probably worn and the plate can work back and forth a little and work the nut loose. The only fix for this is a new plate and quite often a new shaft. The plate should tighten so it is tight and rigid on the shaft. Al Eden Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ambler 0 Posted January 21, 2006 Al, My boys here say that that nut is a funky kind of jam nut thats good for a single torquing, If its not done right you have to put a new nut on to get the designed grab. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ronald Hribar 91 Posted January 22, 2006 It did tighten up. I can assure you it is torqued down. The nuts appeared to have set screw in them, But thinking about it, I bet that was a piece of nylon that holds nut in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BLT 717 Posted January 22, 2006 I had a problem with a set of borrowed ag tires on 12" rims from a John Deere. The mounting offset was more centered on the rim and when I mounted the tires on 7116, I squashed the oil filter. This got me thru the dilema. I was fortunate that the aluminum block was headed for scrap bin. I only did the left side. I now have Simplicity patterened rims. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites