alternator

[ehertzfeld]

Ok , the diesel I got doesnt have any charging system on it. It's ring gear starting, so I don't need a stater/generator. A friends father in law gave me a 12volt alternator with regulator, from a fork lift. I will need some help on the wiring, but I'm not quite there yet. My question for the moment is, does it matter witch direction it turns? I used a DVM on it, and I get the same reading "or abouts" when I spin it by hand in both direction. Also correct me if I'm wrong, but it should give AC out of it right? Elon

[BLT]

Most modern alternators are bi - directional in rotation. Today's alternators are A-C rectified to D-C and generally thats all done underneath the case. Also today's units by enlarge have a built in regulator and you just hook up one wire to the battery. Excitation is done by winding up the engine RPM, voltage commence's and when rotation stops, the voltage regulator disconnects to prevent battery drain back. The only other sensing terminal would be for speed sensing for a tachometer and that optional. As far as A-C taps, my guess is no for the size unit I think you might have. (15-25 Amps)An external regulator also suggests an older charging system. There is nothing wrong with that but you might have to find a wiring diagram or get the diagram from the forklift to connect both pieces properly. Also some external regulators required field excitation to make things work. This means battery power to fire things up. If you unit is a Delco - Remy, I might be able to get a wire diagram. Any other brand might take longer.

[ehertzfeld]

Bob, I'll take a few pictures of it and give any numbers on it. Elon

[D-17_Dave]

An alt. makes A/C and routes it through a set of diodes to cut the sign wave to D/C. It'll depend on where you took the reading from as to what reading you'll get. But no where on the outside of the alt. should you get A/C as the diode packs are built in it. You shouldn't get anything as an alt. needs voltage to excite the field before it will develope voltage. Or that's the way the Delco's work that I'm familiar with. But to answer the ? of rotation, it shouldn't matter.

[BLT]

Dave, some of the smaller Delco 10SI series requires external excitation, even with built in regulators, just about everything else is self excited.

[ehertzfeld]

Ok I did some research, and it looks like Presolite make the alternator. I googled and came up wit a few Leeds to follow. If any of you are interested, here is the info from the alt. ALK 5001-s 7c P 51-36 It has one power/batt term, one Field term, and a ground screw. the regulator is a Prestolite 8-356 VSH-6201J It has one term on the top, one bladed wire off the side. It also is stamped with the following "NEG GRD." I didn't find anything on my alt, but I did find a place to contact the manufacturer. If any of you do, please let me know. Thanks Elon

[richp]

Elon, I tried mounting a Ford car alternator to my 7016 a while back above the ring gear starter and it worked but put quite a load on the motor. I ran it off the large pulley that would run the starter generator which overdrived the heck out of the small pulleyed alternator. If I had to do over, I would have slowed alt. speed quite a bit. One day while mowing, the motor started loading up and the alt. belt went flying.

[BLT]

Here is a place to start. I'll see if I have any thing at work. http://www.prestolite.com/pgs_support/support_0.php

[Ronald Hribar]

I can understand the car alternator which could be as high70 to 100 amps causing belt to go. But if your battery is charged, and you have started tractor. That should be when biggest load would be on alternator. In the course of mowing with your 7016, there should not be an electrical load of any magnitude. Was the Alternator charging 100%? I'm assuming you used a unit with built in regulator.

[HubbardRA]

If you use a Ford alternator with an external regulator, you must have the correct wiring diagram to hook it up. I wired up one on a friends race car. I just looked at the labels on the terminal and alternator and matched them by the names. "Wrong". The alternator charged full power all the time. There are two wiring diagrams for the older Ford units. One with amp gage, and one with idiot light. The wiring setups are totally different. I may be wrong, but If I remember correctly, the stator terminal on the alternator is not used with an amp gage, and I think the armature terminal is not used with an idiot light. I'd have to look it up. Anyway, if you hook up all the wires, it charges all the time and will get red hot. "Been there, done that".

[richp]

Rod, that might have been the problem. I ended up replacing the oem type alt. It did look cool with the car alternator hanging of the side.

[JJ MARSHALL]

get you a delco 10si alternator off a CHEV car or truck there is a regulator available for these alternator that replaces the original 1 so that you can run a 1 wire system .1 wire from the POST MARKED < BAT > on the back of the alternator to the BATTERY. JJ

[firefoxz1]

I only see one thing to add. The direction the alternator usually turns can be determined by the cooling fins. The warm air is drawn out of the alt not in, figure out which way the fan works and you've got the direction. usually clockwise as you look at the pulley.

[BLT]

Elon, diidn't get too far today. Will try again tomorrow.

[richp]

I was told the one wire alternator doesn't charge well at low rpm's. Since I learned that the Briggs motors idle at 1200 rpm's, I guess it would be alright. On a side note, I refuse to set my idle at 1200, my tiny tach says I'm idling at 520 rpm's. In 20 years of tractoring, I never trashed a motor. (sorry to get off topic)

[ehertzfeld]

Here are a few pictures of the alt and regulator. Bob, I didn't get any were either. Firefox, I'll have to check that out. I didn't think about the fan at all, thanks. [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt2.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt3.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt4.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt5.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt6.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/alt7.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/reg1.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/reg2.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/ehertzfeld/reg3.jpg[/img] If I can figure out the direction, and wiring, I should be able to use this one. I like it, small and free:D

[BLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by BLT
Elon, diidn't get too far today. Will try again tomorrow.

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OK it is 12 V 35 Amp alternator. It was intended for Cat, Towmotor and Hyster forklifts.It is also bi-rotational. The case is grounded. Judging from the fan it looks like it spins CCW when facing the pulley. Don't worry though, spinning it in reverse will not adversely affect the cooling. On the regulator, the case it is also grounded and can be fastened to the alternator by the ground screw (GRD) or anywhere that will have a common ground with the alternator. The stud on the regulator is the field wire and connects to the field spade (FLD) on the alternator. The red wire on the regulator is connected to the ignition (+) and powers the regulator when key is turned on. It also drains the battery if you forget to turn off the key. (Don't laugh, it happens) The stud on the alternator is the charge terminal and can be attached directly to the battery (+) or go thru an ammeter and then to the battery. Also, it is recommended that you make a pretty stout mounting bracket, as AC rectified DC alternators give out very violent torsional vibrations not felt or noticed by the eye until you stress cracks appear. Just lift the hood of you car and observe how well the alternator is held in place.

[ehertzfeld]

Bob, you are the MAN!!!!!! Thanks a bunch!!! Elon

[firefoxz1]

I disagree with Bob on one point, that alternator would turn clockwise looking at and toward the fan/pulley. Don't want to scoop the air in you want to pull it out, exspecially with grass and debris floating around from the mower, should turn towards the flat side of the fin.

[BLT]

Elon, either way you spin it, the flow of air is the same but not as efficient when spinning in the rotation not designed for. It is like turning you car fan 180 degrees on the pulley. It still is a suction fan but very inefficeint. I did that stupid mistake to a crane operator. He lost his winter fan which blows warm engine air thru the cab versus the summer fan which pulls fresh thru the cab. I told him him to just turn the summer blade around for the winter. He did , froze his can off the first day and left an impression on me I'll never forget.

[ehertzfeld]

quote:

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Originally posted by firefoxz1
exspecially with grass and debris floating around from the mower, should turn towards the flat side of the fin.

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Well since this is going to be a dedicated loader, I guess I don't have to worry about any grass. I'm going to try to mount it on the front of the engine and run it off the shaft. Now that I just said that, I guess I'm going to mount it on the back of the engine. Being the engines are mounted backwards on theses tractors. lol It's going to be close to the block as possible so it should be inside the hood. I'm guessing that not too much will get passed the grill. If I have to I can always get a tighter mesh to but in the grill. Thanks for all the info guys. Elon