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3314 'Fnt axle fell off'


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Posted
Seems this thing may as well have it's own post. All I was planning on doing was getting the Briggs running, easiest part so far, and bolting the Vickers in it. Seems the more I look the more it falls apart and so far, everything I find make me glad I took that 'one more piece off. While cleaning up the points I saw foxtail sticking out from behind the shroud so figured I best pull the engine, not as bad as I expected but still better off cleaned out The piles in front of the blue crate is what came out

any purpose for this dent? Can't see one looking at where it goes.

Not normal wear on the electric lift but I can't see where the driveshaft disc that's on it now caused the problem

Nasty looking goo in the BGB, but the gears look good

here's what left of it, Think I'm done less i decide to reinforce the way the front axle is bolted on, seems like a pretty thin piece of iron to pivot the center bolt on.

Should have parts Monday or Tues. then's the test, can i reverse what I've done. Couldn't stand the idea of mowing with sloppy steering because the center pivot is worn out. Waitting for parts, so off it came too. made a reenforceing plate outta 1/2 x 1 1/2 iron, cut to fit the ripples in the engine pan.

My welding shed has GOT to get some help. -30 I welded pretty fast.

Rust killer the battery box area last nite after wirebrushing it good. Hate it when people let batteries freeze in parked tractors.

Had some dupli-color chevy orange-red # 1607 left around so I colored it today

Guess I'll repack the front wheel bearing this afternoon and put the lift back together.
Posted
You just keep tearing it farther down. I get a lot of projects like that around here. It's 65 deg. colder there than it is here, and I still can't work in my stocking feet. You must have a heck of a heating system in your shop.
Posted
Marty, the 3310V diesle prolect, has the same problem in the front end, not too mention all the cutting I had to do to get the engine to fit in there. Being this is going to be a loader when I'm done, I have to beef up the front end big time. :) Elon
Posted
Looks like your goin in deep on this one!! those are funny lookin bunny boots!! keep the pics. comin !
Posted
Nothing fanncy about my shop heatter, just cycles air outta the basement. By dividing my wood shute with a piece of blue foam so the warm air comes up on the top half while the cool goes down on the bottom it'll stay 50 -55 in the shop

If I want it warmmer I put a window fan over the top half and run the fan on 1 or 2. Also have gone to using a 1 1/2 in thick chqarcoal filter on the cold air return as it helps a lot to keep shop fluid smells outta the house.

the key to easy warmth in this country is spend a lot on insulation when building. I'm now heatting the house and shop with less wood then I used to use in the house, all because when building the shop I added R-38 over 90 percent of the house roof. Cost me then, but been lovin it ever since.
Posted
Thats pretty inpressive if you can maintain 50to55 deg. when it's100 deg. colder outside !!! I'm spoiled I like to work in my shop at 75/80 lol
Posted
Marty best wishes on your parts coming in and working as you hope they will. It's obvious that your not getting cold feet. Need is the mother of invention and your heating system looks mi-tee-fine. your stove is probably more effective than many store bought units. I have a pellet stove as the only heat source and i use 40lbs per 24 hours. It takes the moisture out of the air. Working in the rain is like no fun. Sharp metal cuts the hands much easyer when the hands are wet.
Posted
You should be back in bussiness once the parts are in .I have had tractors with the steering problem and know your pain.You have the tools to fix the problem.
Posted
Marty, There are two different diameter flex disks. I was looking at a couple of spares that I have. Even though they both have the same hole pattern, one is nearly a half inch larger in diameter than the other. Someone may have put the wrong disk in that end of the driveshaft on yours. I don't know the part numbers, just know that I have two different sizes.
Posted
Marty do you need different flex disks, I have a few extras. Let me know........Dave
Posted
Thanks for the info on the different size disks. Didn't see any signs of rubbing on this one but I'll measure it against the front one. It's possible it's been replaced since the damage was done and the hole in the lift was never noticed because with removing it one wouldn't see it. Much to my surprize, I found new grease in the front wheels last nite. Have faith in parts getting here leroy. SLI has been real good to me over the past 5 years. Don't think I ever got the wrong parts. Think Brenda knows these tractors better then most of us working on them.
Sandy_Lake_Imp
Posted
:IDon't know about that but thanks anyway!^^
Posted
;)Marty, I'd rather see ya out welding in -30, than using that danged weldor in a tube:D:D!! But I'd go with steel toed sandals at least;). Joe
Posted
"I'd rather see ya out welding in -30" Got a bit of saddist in you Joe?}:) The base of the electric lift is non-weldable, at least to me, type of metal, Alum or potmetal, thus use of the tube welder.:D:D
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