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Allis Chalmers B-112

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I just picked up this tractor and it seems to run pretty well with a couple of small problems. It was owned by an older guy (85) and it may be just adjustments needed. The first thing is when I'm in neutral and go to shift into one of the gears it grinds like crazy. The dealer I bought it from tells me that I just have to drive it in, that's the way the old tractors are!!! Doesn't make sense to me, I start the tractor in gear typically 2nd and then it goes back and forth between 2nd and reverse pretty well with no grinding. If I let it slip into neutral though, I turn off the engine and as the motor spins down, it'll slip into gear and I turn the key back on. Since the motor hasn't spun down all the way, it just fires back up and I'm off. The clutch seems to be disengaging enough. My question is there some sort of adjustment that I can make or am I looking at some transmission work. My second issue is with the power take off for the mowing deck (48"). It seems to want to keep running at times when I disengage it. It seems almost as if it engaging and disengaging. When it does this it makes a sound almost like gears meshing together ratherly roughly. I found that if I shut the tractor off and let the pulleys spin down, then it seems to be ok most of the time. Sometimes though it engages the deck by itself and the lever is in the off position. I don't hear any unusual noises once I engage the mower. I have a hydraulic lift on this tractor. I haven't tried out the implements yet and so don't know if the other PTO's exhibit the same kind of behavior. Thanks for any advice you can supply. Leo Boudreau

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Tragu
Leo, I also have a B-112, and have had both problems you described. The gear box is grinding because the drive belt, and hence the gear box input pulley is still spinning when you shift. This is usually an adjustment or wear problem. Assuming this is a vari-speed system, you need to follow the detailed adjustment procedure found in the owner or service manuals. However, before bothering with that, check each pivot point in the vari-speed linkage and make sure there is no excessive wear. How much is excessive is tough to define, but if the idler pulley is not able to dis-engage from the belt, the belt will obviously continue to be moved. If the pivot points look reasonably good, make sure the belt guards are in place. These are integral to forcing the belt off the drive pulley when the clutch is pushed in. In my case, the pivot point wear seemed to be causing my problem. But just last week, I installed a Hydraulic lift system, and in the process, I ended up reversing the clutch/brake rod and the parking brake rod positions from the positions described in the manuals, on the clutch/brake pedal. This solved the problem for me. The PTO system is similar in that a small adjustment can make a world of difference. Mine wouldn't stay dis-engaged, which posed a real problem if I was driving around with the deck raised! I just straightened the linkages, tightened up the fit of the PTO pulleys, greased the PTO fitting, and added a return spring to the idler pulley (don't know if it is supposed to have a spring). The return spring on the idler pulley probably is what solved the problem, but everything helped make the whole thing work better. The instructions for adjusting the vari-speed are here on SimpleTractors. Greg[A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/service/vari-drive_adjustment.htm']http://www.simpletractors.com/service/vari-drive_adjustment.htm[/a]

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Greg, Thanks for the input, I'll check the service manual out fo the adjustments and check the pivot points as well. I just got a service manual yesterday from simplicity for this tractor and was checking over some of the adjustments. It's good to know that this may be the right track to follow. I'll update as soon as I get to it this weekend.

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Tragu
Hi I dont know if this will help but I have a serf 525 and had the same problem when the shifter was in neutral it would grind and if I shifted fast I was fine. The problem turned out to be just to pins that sit very near the pulley out of the bottom of the engine, I thought the pins should be further away from the pulley but turns out that having them closser to the pulley released the tension on the front of the pulley allowing for smooth as ice shifting. Having the pins further away just released the tension on the sides hence the grinding.Not sure if this will help but maybe I also got the same reaction when I talked to the guys at the local simp. dealer they said that it was the nature of the beast. After posting a message on this site it was Jeff Names who helped me (thanks Jeff) . Now whenever I have a question I come here not to that dealer I dont think they deal with simplicity any more and its a good thing. I just found another dealer closser and they seem more helpful. Doug

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