MPH Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 Guess it qualifies has a hack job seeings how I drilled two holes in the side of my 3314. Wasn't likeing the way the shut-off valve was just hangging there, basicly always gonna need two hands to operate so I ground the 9/16 wrench head off one end so the padded clamp would work right, drilled a 3/8 and 1/4 inch hole in the sidepanel and bolted it on. I like the way it came out. Clamp doesn't show up real good but it is findable.
Boney Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 I think it looks sharp,,,I like the brass look :)
D-17_Dave Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 Don't see anything wrong with that Marty. Looks good. Brss shut off looks a little out of my price range though. I go for the 85 cent red plastic shut offs. I guese creame rises to the top and I'm hanging around down near the bottom of the bucket :(
RedbarnRick Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 I like it, seems to be something missing here, you wouldn't be trying to pass this off as a FDT now would you?
MPH Posted February 4, 2006 Author Posted February 4, 2006 Rick, is that too much of disgrace to true born FDT's? I'm calling this my 3314 H FDT before I'm finished. ^}:) Biggest reason for the 5 dollar valve is lack of choices, maybe if I'd preplan such things I could save a few bucks when I have to go to the city. My other choice in Tok NAPA is a screw in one that takes about 10 turns to open, have one on my landlord, hate it, never another.
dewayne Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 Hy Marty, Great idea! I don't like those plastic valves, but my 917h twin has. Ah, after looking 5 gal bucket I just happen to have a brass valve!!!!!! dewayne
Roy Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 Good idea Marty. That valve will work much better than the plastic ones.
johnmonkey Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 I think you could get a job in Wisconsin as an upgrade specialist for Simplicity. Nice looking retro fit. I guess it's not cold enough in Wisconsin. JH
rocko Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 That's anything BUT a hack job. Nice improvement, looks great.
D-17_Dave Posted February 4, 2006 Posted February 4, 2006 Marty, I got my red top valves from NAPA. Although I don't remember what the #'s were ans I'm sure what one store has all the rest continent wide must be stocking the same thing.lol
MPH Posted February 4, 2006 Author Posted February 4, 2006 Thanks everybody for the kind words. If anybody decides to use the idea before you drill the bolt hole check out if you like it better with the valve body turned about 22 degrees outta level, bonehead carpenter makes things level outta :it's gotta be" thinkin' and if the valve was angled downward the filter would fit behind the carb instead of needing to be down below like mine. Didn't want an extra hole so I made it work.
firefoxz1 Posted February 5, 2006 Posted February 5, 2006 Marty, I see what you mean about the valve angle and maybe would have done the same thing. As long as it works don't worry about it^. What was the valve part#? I like the idea of just reaching down and turning it on:D.
dcw06 Posted February 5, 2006 Posted February 5, 2006 Good thinking,Marty!If I remember right,I think I have one of those in my toolbox.
MPH Posted February 5, 2006 Author Posted February 5, 2006 "What was the valve part#" Don't think it had one, just came outta the brass fitting draws at NAPA along with a gas line nipple for each end.
MPH Posted February 5, 2006 Author Posted February 5, 2006 Good thought John. Then NAPA # is 6804. The bad news is now I see it cost me $8.52 plus 1.70 for the 2 gas line nipples. Felt better when I thought it was about 5 bucks of the total of things I got that day.
msiebern Posted February 5, 2006 Posted February 5, 2006 quote:Originally posted by MPH Good thought John. Then NAPA # is 6804. The bad news is now I see it cost me $8.52 plus 1.70 for the 2 gas line nipples. Felt better when I thought it was about 5 bucks of the total of things I got that day. You shouldn't feel bad about it Marty, something that lives as long as a Simplicity deserves quality non plastic parts! ^
D-17_Dave Posted February 5, 2006 Posted February 5, 2006 I looked high and low for an inline 12 volt electric fuel shut off valve so I could wire it in on my 620 but couldn't locate anything cept very pricey stuff for raceing. I thought an electric one makeing it hands free and automatic would really be nice.
comet66 Posted February 6, 2006 Posted February 6, 2006 quote:Originally posted by MPH Good thought John. Then NAPA # is 6804. The bad news is now I see it cost me $8.52 plus 1.70 for the 2 gas line nipples. Felt better when I thought it was about 5 bucks of the total of things I got that day. OOPS! Sorry Marty[:0]:I:I
HubbardRA Posted February 7, 2006 Posted February 7, 2006 Marty, I like that setup much better than the one I have on my 713S. I used one of the plastic valves and it just floats in the middle of the fuel line. Unless you do it just a certain way, it will take both hands to turn it on or off. One hand is needed to hold the line steady as you turn the head of the valve with the other. Yours is a much cleaner installation, and it should work fine with one hand only. It looks like maybe a 45 or a 90 degree fitting on that valve might allow a neater location of the fuel line and filter without a tight turn.
MPH Posted February 7, 2006 Author Posted February 7, 2006 Your right Rod, a 45 degree fitting would have solved my level mounting error. Didn't have one and NAPA was closed by the time I was working on it.:(
Simpleton7016 Posted February 8, 2006 Posted February 8, 2006 Marty, that is such great idea. Thanks for sharing. I too put a shut-off on my fuel line, but like others have pointed out, it takes two hands and more times than not, I fail to shut it off. This begs the question: How dangerous is it to the carb to NOT shut it off? And once I shut the valve off, ought I run the tractor awhile to get the residual fuel out of the carb? Sometimes the tractor will sit for a month before I use it again. I guess I am looking for a quick explanation of what the new gases do to the carb? Damage the float? Is there an additive like what I used to add to my old auto when leaded gasoline became sparse? Thanks, Erik
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