Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Fuel in oil pan


Guest

Recommended Posts

Carb is leaking. 1st install a fuel line shutoff. 2nd change oil, 3rd is check for trash in carb causing float...needle to hang up. You may as well buy a carb rebuild kit and do it right.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Carb is leaking. 1* check for trash in carb causing float...needle to hang up. You may as well buy a carb rebuild kit and do it right. 2* install a fuel line shutoff. =======
============ 1*This has been done 8 t0 10 times at 2 different shops. The results have always been the same. A temporary fix lasting anywhere from 2 hours to two weeks. I even replaced the original carb with a new one thinking that there may have been a factory defect in the original carb. The new carb lasted 3 months before it started the same routine. After 8 - 10 rebuilds and a new carb and still the same problem I'm starting to believe that these carbs have a design flaw which makes them extremely susceptible to clogging gumming up and leaking. 2*I did install a shut off valve but it don't help as it has to be turned on to run the engine. Of course when the engine runs is when it gallops and pours gas into the crankcase.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it possible the fuel tank is dirty? The filters don't catch everything. When you are done using it, it may help to shut the fuel off while it is still running, let it run dry, then it can't leak in while its not running. As for the loping check your timing out.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by lb59
It's not running correctly KSever =============== How'd Ya Guess?
Figured that out when you stated
quote:
gallopes/lopes and leaks gas into the oil pan
.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd check the timing first, if it is doing it with the engine running. Sounds like perhaps an intake valve is open when it should be shut on one cylinder, and the piston on the cylinder is pulling gas in, not firing, then pushing it into the valve chamber and draining into the crankcase, as it would without the fuel shut off valve when the engine is not running. Either the timing is off, or you have a bent valve that is not closing. Is a place to start, anyway.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by ambler
Get a Simplicity with a Kohler
[:0][:0]WOW[:0][:0] Leaks or no leaks, I'll stick to me Briggs:D Elon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's the same engine you refered to earlier in another post, throw it and the mower away as it's likely you'll never get it fixed nor be happy with it. This way you can spread another 40 tons of dirt over the yard with the Bolens since pushing dirt is so much more fun than mowing.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I once had a fuel line deteriorate on the inside, shedding particles that got hung in the float needle. This happened after the filter.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by comet66
I once had a fuel line deteriorate on the inside, shedding particles that got hung in the float needle. This happened after the filter.
============= Ya. Know I thought I'd finally found the problem last spring when i installed a new fuel filter and fuel line . After that it ran perfect for about 5 months before it went back to it's old habit. 5 months of running perfect the all time record for this motor.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by tec2484
If you get gas at the same place all the time try a different station and/or brand.
Hasn't made any difference where I get the gas.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
Originally posted by MrSteele
I'd check the timing first, if it is doing it with the engine running. Sounds like perhaps an intake valve is open when it should be shut on one cylinder, and the piston on the cylinder is pulling gas in, not firing, then pushing it into the valve chamber and draining into the crankcase, as it would without the fuel shut off valve when the engine is not running. Either the timing is off, or you have a bent valve that is not closing. Is a place to start, anyway.
=============== If the problem was something like this why would it run perfect anywhere from 2 hours to 2 weeks every time the carb was cleaned & adjusted or rebuilt or the Carb was replaced with a new Carb?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

briggs and straton is a more reliable than a kohler and runs better to.I had the same problem before its not the carb ,the piston rings would stop the gas from leaking into the oil pan.For me I took of the head and the piston was worn and the piston rings were craked and worn down but still had compression check it almost can be garenteed.dont buy a kohler had one ,one week later it was junk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

or you can check the govern is what my dad said and his advice always works only one time he was wrong and he still wasnt that far off
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You state that you can get it to run good for a short time after new lines & filter, but it always goes back to leaking. Have you used or do you use fuel with ethanol or other alcohol blend in it? It will eat up rubber hoses and rubber on the needles in the carb. Are you using any other additives? Check for air leaks around the carb and intake. If you have an air leak the carb will have to be run rich enough to put a lot of extra fuel into the system. You will never get it to run smoothly with any air leaks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

is it runing yet my dad said you could check the gas valve and see if it sticks open leting to much gas in it,mabey wrong spring,but it still don't explain the gas in the oil pan?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1*Thats what I was thinking, it could be a governor problem causing the loping, unrelated to the fuel leak. 2*You state that you can get it to run good for a short time after new lines & filter, but it always goes back to leaking. 3*Have you used or do you use fuel with ethanol or other alcohol blend in it? It will eat up rubber hoses and rubber on the needles in the carb. 4*Are you using any other additives? 5**Check for air leaks around the carb and intake. If you have an air leak the carb will have to be run rich enough to put a lot of extra fuel into the system. You will never get it to run smoothly with any air leaks. 6*is it running yet my dad said you could check the gas valve and see if it sticks open letting to much gas in it, maybe wrong spring, but it still don't explain the gas in the oil pan? ***************************** 1*If it was a gov. problem why would it run perfect after each carb rebuild or replacement? 2*Leaking and loping, the 2 symptoms are connected when it's running right there is no leakage into the crankcase and the engine doesn't' gallop or lope. 3*When it quits running right it gallops/ lopes and you can smell the gasoline on the dipstick when checking the oil level and the reading goes up higher on the dip stick. 4*N0 5*When it starts loping or galloping which ever you want to call it I have to pull the choke out anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 the way depending on engine speed to get it to smooth out. Having to pull the choke out to get it to run smoothly sounds like the motor is being starved for fuel don't it??? 6* Still loping and leaking-It's not getting enough gas rather than 2 much gas. ***************** This would be a very good engine if only this bug could be worked out permanently or at least long term rather than just a temporary fix. I've never had any starting problems with it even when it's acting up as described. It has plenty of power / you cant's stall it in the heaviest tallest grass or weeds even when it acting up and not running right. I could mow and use it when it's acting up, but the dilution of the oil by the gasoline in the oil pan is what bothers me as that could burn / lock the motor up. One quart of oil to 1 or 2 quarts of gasoline don't make for a very good lubricant. I've talked to Briggs a time or so and they say the problem is dirt getting into the carb and gumming it up. What nobody's figured out is how it's getting into it or how to keep it out of there. I believe if those 2 questions were answered it would solve the problem. I've never seen a a Crab that was so sensitive to that. This in and of itself could be the real problem. It may be so sensitive that it may be impossible to keep things clean enough for the carb to function correctly.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:
lb59 Posted - 02/11/2006 : 16:06:49
quote:
One quart of oil to 1 or 2 quarts of gasoline
Usually fuel and oil get mixed at 50:1 Are you sure with all them carb swaps and rebuilds you didn't accidentally put on a 2-stroke carburetor? Maybe your reed valve is sticking. -Paul
Link to comment
Share on other sites

i dont put oil in the gas . i put quaker state high milage engine oil in it.maybe 1/2 of a quart of oil in 10 gallons of gas in the winter just for extra lubracation
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • maxwood
    • gwiseman
    • PGL
    • andrew68
    • BLT
    • bradperc
    • AC710
  • Recent Status Updates

    • gwiseman

      gwiseman

      As you know SimpletrACtors.com has changed some recently. Working through this so PM me with questions, suggestions, and/or challenges you have. Appreciate your patience and feedback.
      · 0 replies
    • gwiseman

      gwiseman

      Site programming updates were made 3/23/2024. As a result some things have changed including dues payment options. We will continue maintenance and work with technicians to regain credit card payment option and clear up minor challenges. On positive it appears attaching pictures is now easier. Good day. Gene 
      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×
×
  • Create New...