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SmilinSam

Driveshaft spacers?

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SmilinSam
Repowering a 917 with a 16 hp Briggs single. My replacement driveshaft is going to be approximately 1" too short. Already have a Rubber coupler on the engine end. Question. Can I used the standard 1" spacers on the bevel GEar box end ? or Can I use them on the Rubber coupler end in addition to the rubber coupler? Any thoughts? Thanks, Sam

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Al
Hi, Forgot to mention, if you have the rubber coupling, the shaft MUST extemd into a bushing in the engine adaptor. If it don't the rubber coupling has no lateral centering ability and the drive shaft will flop all around and eventially tear the coupling up and damage whatever. This coupling only provides torsional strength, not lateral. Use the appropriate coupling parts for the 7116 driveshaft. Al Eden

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SmilinSam
I do have all the factory coupler parts and the rubber coupler is centered on the bushing in the adaptor thats bolted to the flywheel. I'll see about a longer driveshaft tomorrow while at another parts guys place.

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HubbardRA
Sam, You can use the spacers, but be sure to use them on the flywheel end of the driveshaft. I have homemade spacers on the 61 Wards with the 14 Hp Kohler, and it has been run at tractor pulls for many years. I just used a stack of washers for spacers on the 716H. I didn't have the factory spacers for either of those.

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SmilinSam
I Found a driveshaft laying aout in the barn that is long enough to just eliminate the rubber coupler altogether and go with the fiberglass disc setup like the 3400/7000 series used. That might be the best I would imagine in view of Al's information.

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Could you use the rubber coupler on the BGB end of the driveshaft and use the bushings and flex plate next to the engine?
With the hydraulic lift setup theres no room for it back there. Pretty cramped in there with all the components for that. Although as you can now see, its alot easier to service the driveshaft setup on a RBT than it is on a FDT isnt it?;)

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MPH
"Although as you can now see, its alot easier to service the driveshaft setup on a RBT than it is on a FDT isnt it" I MIGHT have to agree with you if I had a tractor hoist so I didn't have to lay on the floor. All I had to remove was the electric lift.

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Al
Rod, You are correct, I have somewhere the length specs of all or almost all of the Sim driveshafts. Have to search a little. Both types of driveshafts were used in the 7100 family. Certain models used the flex disks and some the rubber coupling. The 7117s and 7119s and the CH Sovereigns used the rubber couplings. I think a couple of more units, but off hand I can't tell you which. Al Eden

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D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam Although as you can now see, its alot easier to service the driveshaft setup on a RBT than it is on a FDT isnt it?;)
Now Sam, if it were a FDT you wouldn't have had to swap from a Kohler to a Briggs[:0] therefor elliminateing the need to mess with the drive shaft.B) ie-problem solved. Go back to them good ol FDT's.8D:D:D:D

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam Although as you can now see, its alot easier to service the driveshaft setup on a RBT than it is on a FDT isnt it?;)
Now Sam, if it were a FDT you wouldn't have had to swap from a Kohler to a Briggs[:0] therefor elliminateing the need to mess with the drive shaft.B) ie-problem solved. Go back to them good ol FDT's.8D:D:D:D
You guys are just incurable:D

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Ronald Hribar
Couldn't you just make a new driveshaft? I did on my 7117 when I (having problem choosing right word) started tractor when driveshaft was unhooked off BFG. I took piece of shaft and made new ends for it and welded on. While mine was same length ,couldn't you make it long enough to eliminate extra spacers?

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SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by Ronald Hribar
Couldn't you just make a new driveshaft? I did on my 7117 when I (having problem choosing right word) started tractor when driveshaft was unhooked off BFG. I took piece of shaft and made new ends for it and welded on. While mine was same length ,couldn't you make it long enough to eliminate extra spacers?
My concerns on that are not getting it welded together straight and creating an out of balance situation.

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HubbardRA
Sam, I also lengthened a driveshaft by putting a tube over the shaft and then welding it. No vibration on that one. By-the-way, my 7116 with the B/S engine also had the rubber coupling in front.

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MDB
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam
quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
quote:
Originally posted by SmilinSam Although as you can now see, its alot easier to service the driveshaft setup on a RBT than it is on a FDT isnt it?;)
Now Sam, if it were a FDT you wouldn't have had to swap from a Kohler to a Briggs[:0] therefor elliminateing the need to mess with the drive shaft.B) ie-problem solved. Go back to them good ol FDT's.8D:D:D:D
You guys are just incurable:D
That be us.......:D

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SmilinSam
I just pulled a 19" shaft from a tractor at another plcae and think that will drop right in in conjunction with the Rubber coupler. In any case, I have the parts here now to do it one way or the other. As to all you "Incurable" FDT lovers, I come to the decision to sell my Homelite T-15...as its built on a FDT chasis... and look for a JCPenny 7000 series look a like and a 3314 to restore and have a little fun in the shop this summmer. Also trying to make sce with this move too, as its space consuming to have to have a set of attachments for each odd ball tractor. by the way, I noticed that the 7117 thats been sitting in a guys trash pile everythime I go by for the last two years is still there. Going to have to pay them a visit in the next week or so with $100 in hand...

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