Wheel width question

[richp 0]

I have a set of wheels off a 3112h that I think are the 12 x 8's. These are the solid hub type, not the welded center style. Whats the widest tire I can sqeeze on these? I run 23 x 10.5 turfs on there and they look huge compared to same tire on the 12 x 7's.

[RayS 79]

I have a set of those solid hub rims that came off of a B 112 and the tires are the originals. The size are 23 X 10.5 X 12.

[HubbardRA 19]

I have a set of 23x10.5 tires on 12x10.5 wheels and a set of 26x12x12 tires on 12x12 wheels. I have run the 23x10.5 wheels on 12x7 wheels before. The tires look much larger on the wider wheels. With a wider wheel you can run more air pressure and still maintain a flat profile tread. I like the wheel width to be nearly the same as the tread width of the tire. I have heard of people putting 26x12x12 tires on the 12x8 wheels. The narrow rim makes the tire bulge more in the center. Here are my 23x10.5s on 10.5 inch wide wheels:

Here are the 26x12s on 12 inch wide wheels:

[richp 0]

Rod, what are those wheels off of?

[HubbardRA 19]

Both sets of wheels have been widened by cutting the rims, then welding a band into the wheel. If you look closely at the picture of the 10.5 wheels, you can see the band. It goes from the edge of the silver to just in front of the wheel face. The band overlaps the original metal on those. I made those wheels. I cut them with a jigsaw, then wrapped the pieces with the wide band, and put all the weld inside the tire. The other set was done by someone else. They are a butt weld, and harder to see that they have been widened. Widening wheels is a common occurrance in tractor pulling.

[richp 0]

Rod, how do you go about getting the wheel to run true? Do you have fixture or technique? I have access to a large lathe that I can slice rim with a parting tool.

[HubbardRA 19]

Rich, I just cut the rims with a jigsaw. Since I was doing an overlap weld, the cut didn't have to be perfectly straight. I cut the metal for the bands, then had a local machine shop run it thru their roller former to bend it into rings. I then just got some screw clamps at the local hardware (the type you put on radiator hose or plastic pipe). I bought some large ones, and actually put a couple together to make them large enough. The bands were long enough to have the ends overlap. I put the clamps on and marked where to cut the ends. Had to do a little trimming with a grinder to make them end up flush. I then put the two cut pieces of the rim inside the band and fastened the pieces in place with the screw clamps. I cut a piece of wood to use as a width gage. Made sure the rim was clamped at the same width all the way around. Then tacked it good and rechecked the width. Then took my time on the welding to prevent burning thru. As I said, I did all the welding on the part of the wheel that would be covered by the tire. I then did a little grinding, and covered the weld with silicone RTV to prevent abraiding or puncturing the tubes. I use tubes, because I don't trust my welding to be totally leak proof. Wheels don't have to be perfect, in fact they rarely are. If they are even off as much as 1/8 inch, you will never notice it. I have seen automobile wheels and tires off that much and they still ran smooth. When you clamp them in place as I said above, they line up pretty well. I've made a set of 10.5 inch wide wheels and a set of 12 inch wide wheels. The 12 inch wide wheels were on my pulling tractor Plum Krazy that is shown in my post in Show and Tell called "From the Archives". On that tractor the rear wheels were turning at a speed of around 40 mph when pulling. I never had any noticeable vibration coming from the welded wheels. I ran that tractor for many years, even won the VA championship in 1990 with it.

[richp 0]

Thanks Rod, that helps a lot. Now if the temps will get warm over here, that will be a good spring project. Another idea I have is to go with a bigger diameter tire and for clearance, relocate the fender part of seat pan higher like the powermax style. Been planning on making a monster tractor for years. If I had the money, I would just buy a powermax style, but that would be too easy. (but fun)

[Ronald Hribar 91]

check for clearance at rear pto clutch. I spaced wheel out 2 inches to clear.

[Kent 435]

Rich, I would ask you to PLEASE not cut and modify the solid-center wide wheels from your 3112H. Those are quite hard to find -- not sure if they qualify for "rare" or not, but they're certainly not very common at all... Many of us would be satisfied with being able to mount 10.50s to those wide stock wheels. If you're going to make wide wheels, I'd suggest you start with the standard 7" wheels that typically have 8.50x12s mounted on them. These are quite common, and would only require a wider band of steel to be welded in. My 2 cents!

[HubbardRA 19]

Rich, I agree with Kent. The wheels that I have modified have been the 6 or 7 inch widths from some of the older tractors that I have had laying around. Most of them didn't even come off Simplicity tractors. If you are going to weld a band into them, then it doesn't matter what width you start with. Also the narrow wheels have a small backspacing, so if you do the widening on the outside, it will keep the tire out away from any PTO or tranny interference.

[richp 0]

No, I wouldn't touch them. Those wheels have gone from tractor to tractor for years and I wont part with them. I have a bunch of the 7's, so I will butcher those instead. Another idea for my monster tractor is lenghten the frame behind the motor, then extend the hood, widen the front axle and tigh rod and put larger rims and tires on the front. This project will be low budget and good for keeping we occupied.

[PhanDad 3,533]

Can someone explain or show a pic of a "solid hub" wheel? My Homelite T-12 has 8" wide wheels with 10.50 turf tires. They appear wider than the same 10.50 turf tire on my GTH-L with 7" wide wheels. I also believe the offset is a bit different on the wheels. Maybe I have the "rare" ones? The part number listed in the Homelite parts manual is 1607143 which now crosses over to the 7" wheel number 1709969.

[Kent 435]

quote:

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Originally posted by PhanDad
Can someone explain or show a pic of a "solid hub" wheel?

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For about a year, in about 1969, Simplicity used an 8" wide wheel on the Sovereigns and late B-112s like this: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2//attach/Kent/Nice_Tractor.jpg[/img] The center hub of the wheel is a solid piece of flat steel with openings only for the lub bolts and the center hub. It doesn't have the four oval-shaped holes where the hub is welded to the rim, like most wheels do...

[PhanDad 3,533]

Kent, Thanks for the speedy pic/explanation. I don't have a "solid hub" wheel.

[Bunky 3]

Well I know this might open up a can of Worms But I have had several RBT Sovereigns and they have all had the new style Wheels and Been the 7" Wheels So Was there there ever factory 8" wheels????

[wilm169 1]

Bunky I have found 2 sets of 8" wheels on older 300 ACs I also have a set on a Bolens but the dish is different.

[Kent 435]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bunky
Well I know this might open up a can of Worms But I have had several RBT Sovereigns and they have all had the new style Wheels and Been the 7" Wheels So Was there there ever factory 8" wheels????

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Yes, the ones pictured above... that's why they're so sought after.