original 6HP motor in Broadmoor, need help!

[simplicity707]

I recently acquired a 1964 Broadmoor last night with the original 6HP motor in it. I don't believe it has been ran in a few years. I was wondering what is the best way to go about seeing if I can get it to start. I'm not familiar with the carburetors on them. I need to wire the electric start up, then after that put gas in it and see if it will start? I know it's got compression, I need to check spark, and if it's getting gas. I was just wondering what the best way is to go with these older ones. If I can't get it going a friend of mine might re-build it if he has time. Thanks in advance for your input, David

[cowboyoutlaw]

Hi David the first thing i always do is get a carb rebuild kit and spark plug. Ive learned that when they sit for a while the needle and seat along with the fuel bowl usally sticks and the gas just pours out plus if they didnt drain the tank befor parking it the carbs get all gunked up it might run the way it is but not right. i always clean my points too just to be on the safe side good luck

[FastPaul]

Hey Dave I think Dirk put it in a nutshell a little PM will go a long way ,Good luck

[ZippoVarga]

Cowboy's got it pretty well down. When I get an engine that's known to have sat for some time I always de-gunk the carb and inspect everything prior to initial start up. It also wont hurt to stand the tractor on it's rear fender, pour about two table spoons of oil into the s park plug hole and manually rotate the engine CLOCKWISE a few times to lube things up a bit. Change the oil, replace the spark plug, file the points and re-gap IF you don't have a good spark. Clean the surface of the magneto and coil. To re-gap the coil it's easiest to just put a business card between the magneto and coil and tighten the coil down. Rust on either will cause you loss of charge. The earlier 6-7 hp Broadmoor would have had one of two different air breathers. A round oil bath type where you put oil in a shallow cavity with the paper element above or it has the foam element. In either case you will want to make sure they are either new or Very clean. Check the numbers on the blower shroud. If it is the correct shroud for the engine you will have a serial number that begins with the numbers 63 or 64. The model and type will tell you the displacement and the configuration of the shaft and a number of other little interesting tidbits. Download Adobe Acrobat Reader and go to the briggs sight and you can download a full parts composite of your engine with part numbers. Hope this helps. By the way...I also own a 1964 first year Broadmoor and I have owned it for over 12 years so if you have any problems with it I can probably point you in the right direction with it. Sean aka Zippo

[KVANDY12]

Can't add anything to whats already been said except I always use marval mistery oil to lub. the cylinder. Good luck and have fun.

[Robert Kehoe]

When i bring home a "new" 40 year old tractor, the first thing i do is jump the battery from another tractor and a shot of starting fluid just to see what you have. Then if it fires, I clean the carb,change the oil, buy a new battery etc....

[cowboyoutlaw]

Hey Zippo putting a little oil in the sparkplug souds like a good idea i never thought of that just shows you learn something new on this site all the time

[simplicity707]

Hi guys, thanks for all of your replys. I plan on trying to get it started this weekend. I need to wire it up and put a battery in it, but after that put some starting fluid in it. I was thinking about just trying to start it first, but I don't want the thing to blow up on me. All of the model numbers on the engine are legible(sp?). I turns over and has compression, now I need to check spark. A friend of mine will probably end up re-building it just so I can be good to go unless it runs good the way it is. Thanks again guys!

[simplicity707]

OOPS, BTW, i forgot to ask a question. I was looking through the tec pubs. on the Simplicity site for the wiring diagram and it shows no where to hook the key switch up. I know it grounds out something but i'm not sure what. Do any of you guys know where it goes? It mentions it in the dashboard view, but not in the wiring section. Thanks, David

[SmilinSam]

The kill wire from the engine connects to the keyswitch on those older ones. Those switches are a simple on/off switch that grounds the wire connector to the tractor frame through the switch body when its in the Off position.

[Jovee]

David, do everything Dirk said plus take the tank off and clean it out and replace the rubber fuel line. The goo doesnt just sit in the carb bowl. Also rust in the tank could be a hinderance. Keep a good inline paper filament fuel filter on it. Needles hate rust particles and intake valves hate goo. Test firing with ether for a second or two might answer the question if you need to know sooner but disconnect the line.

[ZippoVarga]

Jovee, thanks for the back up. I totally lost my self in thought when I was helping out. Exactly correct....clean out the tank!!!! Had a serf with gunk half an inch thick a while back. If I hadnt cleaned it out I would have thrown a BIG wrench into the works. Sean aka Zippo

[simplicity707]

Well I got it all wired up and it turns over great! It just won't start now. I don't think it has any compression because after it turns over it just stops. I doesn't kick back like it should. It has spark. I dumped some gas in the carburetor and it ran all over the drive from the bottom of it. I sprayed some WD40 in there and it didn't even act like it wanted to. I'm bringing it in tomorrow and I'm gonna let my friend re-build it since it's gonna be my main mower this summer. Thanks very much for all you guys' help. I really appreciate it!

[Simplicity314]

Don't bring it in just yet...First, make sure your fuel line isn't clogged. Gas should be pouring out when you cank the engine if it pours out when you pour it in. The engine should have drawn the gas into the bowl. Even if the compression is low you usually will still have enough to get the gas to at least spit into the carb then chamber. Because the gas poured out of the carb when you poured it in the top makes me lean towards a carb problem. it sounds like you forgot to install the jet adjustment screw, or forgot a bowl gasket, or the float has a hole in it, hanging up on the pin or not adjusted properly. Maybe drawing air instead of gas.

[simplicity707]

The first time i attempted to start it (which was pouring gas in the carb and turning it over) it acted like it was going to fire but after that nothing. The gas line wasn't even hooked up. I took the oil bath air cleaner off and dumped some gas down in there, not much just some and it ran all over the driveway. I did it again and it just turned over. To me it seems like it has everything to make it run. Newer spark plug and when I hold onto the wire it bites me. Gas doesn't pour out when i'm cranking it unless it all ran out after I poured it out. I may have to get some starting fluid and see if I can't get it to fire with that. I'm very engine illetirate. It's probably some really easy problem that i have overlooked. I have a little more time today so maybe i'll try that. All the jets and set screws are in there.

[KSever]

quote:

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Originally posted by simplicity707
The first time i attempted to start it (which was pouring gas in the carb and turning it over) it acted like it was going to fire but after that nothing. The gas line wasn't even hooked up. I took the oil bath air cleaner off and dumped some gas down in there, not much just some and it ran all over the driveway.

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Last time I did this I had to empty the fire extinquisher on a good motor, took me more time to clean up the extinquisher mess and the tractor than it would have taken me to clean the carb in the first place.

[SmilinSam]

Most likely the float valve is stuck closed. This requires disassembling the carb and replacing the valve and installing new gaskets after everything has been cleaned thoroughly. If theres no compression, then a valve could be hung up not completely seating as well. You can hook a compression tester up to it and see what the compression is. Then add a couple of teaspoons of oil into the combustion chamber and test again. If it improves its mostlikely the rings. If it does not improve, look towards the valves or possibly head gasket.

[simplicity707]

Thanks again guys for all of your help and there is certainly a lot of good information here. Well, it FINALLY fired with ether today. I got some from the shop teacher and sprayed some inside there. It popped and it started. It ran kind of rough and smoked but hey it started so now I know that it does run. I don't have much time to work on it but I will update as it progresses. My friend also thinks a valve is not seating properly thus causing weak compression. Who knows. Now I'm gonna take the carburetor apart and clean it then go from there. Thanks again for your help and I will keep you posted on what happens.

[ZippoVarga]

My 64 990303 was in my neighbors trash in pieces. He said it was there when he bought the house and he didnt have time to mess with an old broken down tractor. Drug it home, cleaned everything out, wrapped a rope around the cup and it started the first pull. Been working around here ever since. That's been nearly 12 years ago now. Even though these are the small framed tractors they're still pretty stout in comparison to most their size. And the fact that it's an FDT is a major plus!! LOL

[simplicity707]

Hey Sean, does yours have the original motor in it? I esp. LOVE the FDT's! IMHO, they are so much easier to work on. I did some work on my neighbors 4212 last year and it was definitly a pain to adjust the clutch and all the good stuff.