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Q for Kohler fans


ZippoVarga

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I have an older Kohler horizontal shaft with an electric clutch that was dropped off the other day and I have a couple questions about this engine. There are no apparent identifying numbers that I can see. But then again, I am not familiar with these engines. 1. Where are the numbers to identify these 70's vintage kohlers? 2. How do I check the charging system? There is a 3 wire voltage regulator on the starter side of the shroud with one of those three wires going to an external automotive type coil on the "+" side and the other two apparently go to the stator behind the flywheel. This "+" wire then pigtails off the coil to a "T" connector with another wire. I have determined that one is + and the other - but when I start the engine it shows 13.2 +/- .3 volts at idle and then goes to 0 volts when the rpm's get to a certain point. Does this indicate a bad regulator? Or perhaps since the battery is fully charged the regulator shuts down the charge? 3. When the electric clutch is engaged there is a noticeable drop in engine rpm. Is this typical? I have two other electric clutch machines that do not do this. But they are briggs. It's a single wire clutch with the frame of the magnet being grounded to the engine. It almost acts like the magnetic field is effecting something adversely. The points are right up in front near the clutch, is it possible that this magnetic field is robbing power or retarding the timing in some mysterious way? Or is it something more simple? Help!! Sean aka Zippo
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Numbers were on stickers stuck on the engine shroud. Many times the glue doesnt hold over time and they fall off. The Model number and Spec number would have been on one square sort of sticker and the Serial number would have been on a narrow rectangular sticker. Should be up towrds the top on one side or the other.
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maxtorman1234
"There is a 3 wire voltage regulator on the starter side of the shroud with one of those three wires going to an external automotive type coil " Sounds like someone has hooked up the engine wrong. the third wire from the stator should not go to a coil, thats telling me someone has hooked the engine to run off of the power its putting out from the stator. The wire should go to the battery to charge it. The coil positive wire should go to the battery. the battery ignition system is designed to be run off a battery, the engine should stall when disconnected from the battery, if not its running off the coil, and thats not enough to properly power the engine. Im just guessing at what you're doing, but if you hook the coil to the battery, that shold solve a few problems. Make sure the clutch is also hooked to the battery, not the stator or coil. the electric clutch shuould not slow the engine down. THey stick the stickers with #'s in many different places depending on the machine the motor is in. Like Sam mentioned, it could be ripped off or something.
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You could somewhat identify the engine by looking behind the electric clutch to find the block casting number. It would be something like 241(10hp engine)301(12hp engine)321(14hp engine)or 341(16 hp engine). I don't remember for sure but the number may be preseded by a K. Also I have been told that some of the 14 engines also used the 301 casting number. Dan
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Found the identification. Had to take the shroud off because the frame of this tractor was covering it. it's a K301. All the numbers are on the larger tag and are K301AQS and 47541d with a block casting of "B 4". Took the extra wire from the coil "+" side off to run only on the battery. Now....Can any one tell me how to check the charging system? The regulator has three wires. Two going in from the stator on the outer regulator pins and one exiting and going no where currently from the center pin. As for the clutch, it's a direct wire to the battery selonoid constant + side. Yet the clutch seems to starve the charge some how. This thing was a total nightmare when I got it in and i've made progress in rewiring it to get it running. Just need a little help to make sure it's charging the way it should. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Sean aka Zippo
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Max, Just re-read your post. So I am to understand this middle wire off the regulator should show positive current only when the engine is running correct? If it shows voltage when running do I then run it directly to the positive battery post? Seems if I run it to the constant positive side of the selonoid that it will accomplish the same with out the added wire. I'm still not sure if the stator and regulator are operating correctly but I will check that tomorrow. Thanks a bunch group!!!!! Sean aka Zippo
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maxtorman1234
quote:
Originally posted by PeppyDan
You could somewhat identify the engine by looking behind the electric clutch to find the block casting number. It would be something like 241(10hp engine)301(12hp engine)321(14hp engine)or 341(16 hp engine). I don't remember for sure but the number may be preseded by a K. Also I have been told that some of the 14 engines also used the 301 casting number. Dan
Just thought i'd add that old blocks don't have a # cast into them, it seems about 1970 they started casting # into the blocks. im not sure about 14's with k301 cast into them, but i do know that k301's have been used for a 10HP engine. the # cast into the block will have a K in front. hope you get the wiring sorted out, you can run it to the solenoid, as long as its hooked somehow on the positive side of the battery. usually it runs through the keyswitch to the ammeter then to the battery,.
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Mike!!! Perfect!!! Thank you very much. That will make short work of troubleshooting this Kohler. Glad it's not mine though. I like those briggs setups. Max and Dan, again, thank you!! And one wonders how they managed on their own for so long!! lol Sean aka Zippo
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And ANOTHER $10 in annual dues well spent^ I just can'tunderstand why anyone would not want to pay their dues? Dan aka IronPony
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