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dads707

Depressed tractor (tractorcide)

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dads707
The old girl hasn't been feeling good lately. Found her this morning, not a pretty sight.

Donor tractor that doesn't want to donate!! The pivot is frozen, and I need the shaft out of it for this one.

I have heated and beat and beat and heated. Plus I have been spraying it with PB blaster for the last couple of weeks. I am about to give up and just unbolt the trans and trash the rest of it. I really wanted those brackets, though....

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Karl_Brandt
My 1971 Simplicity 728 had the same problem.;) Had to tear apart the whole tractor to fix the problem.:( The pivot point was also stiff...after lots of beating with a sledge hammer & soaking the pivot finally came apart. Looks like the grease under the tractor never gets greased. Before I put the pivot shaft back together I put anti seize compound on the shaft. This is the second tractor I had trouble with the pivot. Karl [url]www.simplicityva.com[/url]

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D-17_Dave
NEVER seen something frozen so hard that a rosebud tip on the tourch and enough leverage couldn't take care of. Also, persistance pays off when you work on something like that.

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dads707
The only part I really "need" is the shaft the drive pulley mounts on. I was just trying to save the trans bracket in case I ever needed one. The pic is sorta blurry, but the keyway is shot in therunning tractor. I went ahead and took the tranny out and split the case to get the shaft.

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comet66
When you use heat to free up such a joint, or bolt, as the item cools it will usually tighten back up. Requiring repeated heating, and beating. While it is still cherry hot, place an old birthday candle, or piece of parafin wax at the junction of the two parts and allow the wax to be drawn into the joint. Then as it cools it will not get tight again, and should not require reheating.

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MPH
Another last shot rust breaker is that good ole coke-a-cola. It will disolve rust, used it on a Gilson tiller cast iron tiller gear box several years ago. A week of soaking in kroil and PB didn't do it.

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sandyhillbill
Take the tranny out of it and where the bolt holes that attach the frame to the tranny take a couple of long lag screws and attach the frame to a fence post very securly and then go to work with heat and p b blaster or kroil or what ever and you can also put a landscape timber through the frame for leverage. I know this will work because this is how I salvaged mine. The anti-sieze is a good suggestion also when re-assembling. Good luck

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Leroy
quote:
Originally posted by MPH
Another last shot rust breaker is that good ole coke-a-cola. It will disolve rust, used it on a Gilson tiller cast iron tiller gear box several years ago. A week of soaking in kroil and PB didn't do it.
I have a neighbor who puts entire tractor engine blocks in a 55 gallon drum he said the acid will only eat the rust. He doesn't try to remove the old bolts until he removes the rust. The deal with the acid is the dilution strength. Once he takes the engine out of the acid he has to wash it good because the acid will then start to eat the metal. It gets slimmy. He has a rusty yard though. He actually has more old tractors and equipment that it is difficult to see very clearly. I only visited him once on a service call for a cook stove. The place looks like a rust museum. He don't like paint. lol

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Leroy
I guess i dunno what your trying to remove specifically. But if the nuts are frozen get a nut spltter and your good to go. If there is a bolt. MPH has the sure fire method Coke. Build a little clay dam around the area and load the resevoir with the tasty substance. It will take a couple of times maybe but coke works. Electrolosis works also but you may not have the patience er inclination for that activity.

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FastPaul
There's one more trick you might want to try,Get it cherry hot though the hole area and then quench it in or with cold water until it's cold and then twist it or give it a good beating,it,s worked for me on a lot of frozen things.The rapid contraction will break the rust, the faster you can cool it the better it will work,so dunking the whole peice would be best Good luck

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2burning
Man that looks like hard work! I hate working on rusted up fasteners and such. I always use antisieze on stuff I put back together that I know will see moisture or really heavy vibration. I don't think antiseize is the best on parts that are going to be in motion though, just lots of good grease.

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RipRat
I had one on a doner frame that i had to cut the receiver out of the frame then i cut the receiver length wise along the pin just enough to split it with cold chisels and a hammer and then i hammered it off. clean up the pin realy good before you put it back. i use marine bearing grease for everything if it can withstand boat trailor tires going into the water all the time it should work for a tractor

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