Making a Heavier Front Counterweight

[Kent]

Has anyone modified a Landlord/Soveriegn front counterweight to make it heavier? How did you do it? How did it work? Since a couple of folks are showing off their rear forklifts, and I'm contemplating how I'm going to use my 46" (36" plus extensions) tiller on hillsides, I thought this would be a timely question to ask the group. I have a couple of the front counterweights, and I could see the value of adding 50 lbs or more to one...

[GregB]

Are you going to use the counterweight to help lift the Tiller? Or just keep the front end on the ground? If you are just looking to keep the front end down, Some flat stock could be used to make a bracket like the pullers use. I have used large stainless steel band clamps to hold barstock together for a homemade counter weight. Not pretty but it works. GregB

[Kent]

quote:

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Originally posted by GregB
Are you going to use the counterweight to help lift the Tiller? Or just keep the front end on the ground? If you are just looking to keep the front end down, Some flat stock could be used to make a bracket like the pullers use. I have used large stainless steel band clamps to hold barstock together for a homemade counter weight. Not pretty but it works. GregB

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Making it continue to function like the factory counterweight would be the best, since that increases the lift capability at the back of the tractor...

[Bunky]

If you just want added Front Weight I would build a bracket and use these suitcase weights... There $35 each at the JD dealer8D [img]/club2/attach/Bunky/1405.JPG[/img]

[ehertzfeld]

quote:

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Originally posted by Bunky
There $35 each at the JD dealer8D

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Because that would be a sin!:D:o):D Elon

[SmilinSam]

Dont the auxillary Collar weights also slide on the factory front counterweight? Also, I was under the impression that the factory front counterweight also had hole in it to mount it into a fixed position?

[Rob-B]

Kent when your're ready come on down and we will fix you right up. I've gathered some solid stock from work, and we can weld it up in a jiffy. Plus we can maybe have that x-mas dinner? Rob

[MPH]

About the only way I could see doing it would be too weld another piece of heavy round stock to the oem one. Warning, can't be on top as it will hit the engine shaft when raised all the way up. The one I made i got my arms a bit too long on and it will rub I'd almost think another 50 lbs would be enough to make the tiller float.

[GregB]

Went down to the barn to look at my weight on a b-10. There is a second set of holes between the mouning holes and the weight. Maybe you could use those holes off-setting the second weight? Then tie the weights together? GregB

[Roy]

Kent, I'm comtemplating using my son's barbell weights with a post mounted on a dozer blade hitch as a front counterweight. Perhaps you could devise a method to hang some barbell weights on your existing counterweight. Barbell weights are available cheap with some looking. I passed up a set at a salvage store for $20 yesterday for example. Just a thought,

[GregB]

That sounds like a great idea! You can adjust the weight until it suited your needs or taste. A word of caution though, with a lot of weight on the counter balance you might have to hold the tiller into the ground. GregB

[Kent]

quote:

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Originally posted by SmilinSam
Dont the auxillary Collar weights also slide on the factory front counterweight? Also, I was under the impression that the factory front counterweight also had hole in it to mount it into a fixed position?

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Sam, the collars will fit on one end (left side) as I recall, but the "lift arm" prevents using one on the right end. Also, when you have them on, you can't move the counterweight up or down because they hit the tractor... you'd have to pin the counterweight on. This is going from my faulty memory, but I actually tried that. I've seen the collars used on Broadmoor rear weights, though...

[Kent]

Roy, that sounds like a great idea as far as flexibility. I'd like to have the weight closer in toward the tractor, though, so it doesn't limit your maneuverability too much. I'm thinking more along the line that Marty described -- added steel or something to the front of the factory counterweight. You could even make it wider, up to the tread width of the tires, as long as they clear it when you turn the steering wheel. Something along the line of a big heavy front bumper that serves as a counterweight also...

[MPH]

Roy, I used that set up several years ago on the B-112 with the landscap rake on the back, it worked real good. Pictures of it might be in the old and moldy posts somewhere or on my old computer somewhere. Kent is right on the overall length being a problem in tight areas but if you have ample room in the yard it's a quick simple solution to a front counter wt.

[Robert Kehoe]

Kent...Do you want it for weight out front or a counter balance for a rear lifting item like a tiller or re-vitalizer. I made a front weight out of a old snowblower, cut most off and added a reciever hitch from Tractor Supply. Now i add a trailer hitch, or 3" solid stock or anything that will go in a 2" reciever hitch

[Kent]

quote:

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Originally posted by Robert Kehoe
Kent...Do you want it for weight out front or a counter balance for a rear lifting item like a tiller or re-vitalizer.

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Both...

[Roy]

I'm puzzled. Everyone seems to need a counter-weight to operate their tillers. I used the tiller on my B-1 for years w/o a counter-weight. It is just not that hard to lift and lower. Unless the tiller is the 38" HD unit, which is very heavy, I don't understand the need for front weight. I will grant you that the steering is light w/o front weight.

[Kent]

Roy, Even though it's not the 38" HD tiller, this 36" tiller with tine extensions gives your left arm a real workout... It's quite a bit wider than the tractor, even with 10.50s on the rear. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2//attach/Kent/3112V_tiller.jpg[/img]