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Vickers to Sunstrand Help !!!


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Posted

Disassembling the vickers

Vickers out

Sundstrand in and running. Can`t seem to get any forward or reverse speed.

Will I need to do some major hacking to get some speed out of the sundstrand. I would like to leave the frame original if posible.

Well I installed the quadrant from some spare parts that I had laying around off of a 7016H that i bought this winter. It seems to at least given me about 80% of the speed back, probably around 5 miles per hour. The old quadrant for the shifter for the vickers would allow you to hit the dash and you couldn`t get much speed from it. When I removed the quadrant you could could get maxium speed. I think with a little tweaking I can get some more speed. Revers e is slower but I don`t do much backwards.

Relocated the hole that the linkage mounts to and that fixed some of the binding issues.
Posted
http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/variable_to_hydro2.htm http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/variable_to_hydro.htm
Posted
The Sundstrand control lever must travel MUCH farther than the Vickers. I ran into this when I converted my variable speed to hydro. I'm not sure how you can do it without doing some kind of permanent mod. I grafted the Sundstrand controls onto the bottom of mine, farther forward than the original location, and still had to drill another hole on the transmission's control to get full travel, as shown by the picture linked below. Picture: http://www.simpletractors.com/images/var_hydro/new_speed_mount.jpg Writeup: http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/variable_to_hydro.htm You might be able to put an off-centered pivoting lever in the middle of the controls somewhere that "magnified" the travel, by being short on the "input" side and "long" on the "output" side... The challenge is that there's not much room in the frame tunnel...
Posted
You don`t get enough speed forward. What if you were to grind the weld off the handle at the bottom where it goes thru the frame, use the quadrant for the 700 series and tilt the handle back and tack weld it in a suitable postion. You should get more forward travel this way with out modifiying the frame?
Posted
I don't think you'll get enough travel in either forward or reverse... the linkage arm inside the frame on the Sundstrand control is about twice as long as it is for the Vickers or variable speed. With your proposed solution, you might get enough travel forward, but not in reverse -- if I correctly understand what you're describing. The problem is the differences in length of the flat linkage arms inside the tunnel -- not anything on the outside...
Posted
The HB-116 has the new style control lever used with the Sundstrand and it works full speed ahead and full reverse. Sam should be able to supply the answer. His article gives a description of what he did along with pictures #3 #4 #4a.
Posted
Sam did it similar to the way I did it -- grafting on the Sundstrand lever to the bottom of the frame, and cutting a hole in the frame for the linkage to operate through. The only real difference in this step is that he welded his on while I bolted my "graft" on. See how long the linkage is that is on the inside of the tunnel... It comes from underneath the frame, up through the bottom of the frame, and almost rubs the top of the tunnel. In fact, you have to trim the bulkhead in order for it to move all the way through its arc... Sam's -- now Maynard's -- HB-116 [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/HB116/no3.JPG[/img] My HB-216 [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/var_hydro/vertical.jpg[/img]
Posted
Could you shorten the distance between the pivot and the location where the rod attaches to the control cam assembly. I'm not sure that you would get enough travel this way, but I thought it's worth mentioning. Dan
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by PeppyDan
Could you shorten the distance between the pivot and the location where the rod attaches to the control cam assembly. I'm not sure that you would get enough travel this way, but I thought it's worth mentioning. Dan
I still had to do that also, to get full travel without the control lever hitting the dash. I don't think that this modification, alone, will give him the full travel. The basic problem is that the linkage arm for the Sundstrand is about twice as long as the Vickers, meaning the linkage rod must travel about twice as far to get the same change in direction or speed... [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/var_hydro/new_speed_mount.jpg[/img]
Posted
I've never done this conversion or seen one but wanted to pose a thought. It might not work at all but just thought I'd throw it out there. On his 4th picture posted it shows the control linkage at the sundstrand hydro. It shows the original vickers control rod coming from the bevel box to the rockshaft for the sundstrand. Could the original vickers rod be shortended and attached to a pivot arm that is fixed below the control rod and extends an inch or more above where the vickers rod would attach. Then have a short adjustable linkage attached to the top of the pivot arm above where the vickers control attaches. Then have that short adjustable linkage attach to the sundstran contol rockshaft. Depending on the lengths from the pivot point that the vickers control attaches and the adjustable linkage attaches you could get more travel. Just a thought so don't beat me up too badly.
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by lboy1971
Depending on the lengths from the pivot point that the vickers control attaches and the adjustable linkage attaches you could get more travel.
That's along the line of what I was trying to describe originally -- you have to somehow "multiply" the amount of travel that the linkage provides...
Posted
There is another way, but its a whole lot more complicated than what Kent and I did on our conversion projects. You have to build a transfer jackshaft assembly between the transmission frame plates. Run your Vickers control linkage pinned to a tab at the bottom at a point close to the jackshaft and then have another tall tab going stright off the top of the shaft above the lower tab your controls are pinned to. You then attach a control arm from the top of this tab to your control cup on the pump. Basically this setup increases the travel motion of the vickers control lever to be able to effectively operate the Sundstrand. I did thsi operation once and it seeed to work. Complicated though and you have to play it by ear trial fitting everything over and over to get the right amount of travel. you also have to have a welder to make the shaft asembly I am talking about. Sorry, but I never took any pictures as I did this way before I ever got on the club.
Posted
doesn't everyone have a welder or 2 laying around? lol
Posted
All you need to do is mount an arm in line with the existing rod, then configure as shown below. Use the different holes to adjust the throw. This will require modifying the rod from the control lever to the tranny. This amplification lever can be attached to the side plate with a spacer to put it in line with the linkage rod. Looks like there is room between the BGB and the tranny. [img]/club2/attach/HubbardRA/Linkage.jpg[/img]
Posted
Excellent, easy solution Rod! Good thinking... :D
Posted
I would like to thank everyone that helped out on this. Rod, I really like that idea that you came up with as well. I may use this idea to get the rest of the speed out of it.
Posted
Ray, if this idea works out for you, I'd consider using ball joints on threaded rod for the connector links. Small, cheaper ones like on the steering of the smaller lawn tractors. Would give you a little adjustment, and also eliminate any play in the linkages that could result in occasional creeping problems. Pat
Posted
Ray, Glad you got it working to your satisfaction! Based on your last pic posted above, I think the reason you can't get full reverse is because of the linkage rod is now hitting the shaft that the "control cup" turns on. I think this may be limiting the travel to the rear... Without being there and able to see it all move, it's hard to visualize...
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by Kent
Ray, Glad you got it working to your satisfaction! Based on your last pic posted above, I think the reason you can't get full reverse is because of the linkage rod is now hitting the shaft that the "control cup" turns on. I think this may be limiting the travel to the rear... Without being there and able to see it all move, it's hard to visualize...
Kent, after checking out the linkage it does hit in reverse. I actually think that I will beable to go back to the orignal hole, since I put the quadrant from the 7016H on there.
a7117puller
Posted
sounds like too much fun with the torch and welder. Rather stick to my RBT's, easier to get at stuff underneath lol
Posted
Well I am finally finished and I got the forward and reverse speeds all worked out now. Thanks to every one for the help on this conversion.
Posted
Don't you love it when a projects works out right. ^ Congratulatons.
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