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StanS

The other 4040 clutch

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StanS
First thing that broke last fall when I got the new 4040 was the clutch adjustment bolt. I've just replaced it with a long Eye bolt and kept the orginal 9 1/2 inch spring. Because the new belts are 29" instead of 22 and I really should be using 28" belts, (remember the Briggs experiment ?) I don't believe the "compress to 8" method will work. Most everything I've ever messed with had a 3/8 to half inch deflection. Is there a formular or rule of thumb to use that would put the double belt system at the correct tension ???? I promise to report soon on how the 16.5 L-head is working out (fuel, battery, and wiring yet to go.
Stan

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Stan:

I assume from your post that you have installed a different engine which will change the distance between the pulleys for the clutch. Just curious, but what engine did you install?

Now for some answers to your question.
I believe that the 'compress to 8"' should give you the correct TENSION on the belts, but due to the belts being a little long, your shaft to the hydro unit will be hanging a bit low. The Simplicity manual lists the following specs (I know, they won't all apply correctly in your case):

Spring height after running the engine: 8"

Belt stop to belt clearance after running: 1/16 - 1/8"

Clearance between pulleys: 1/16" (This would be different for yours due to the increased crankshaft height).

Clutch pedal free travel should be 1 to 2 inches after running the engine.

I hope some of this is helpful. I am new to this group, so I have not seen any other threads on your project, but I do hope it works out well, especially since I had considered a similar project a few years ago before overhauling the engine in mine. Keep us posted.

Terry

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StanS
Terry,

Just got back from a looong weekend and can't find my notes. Ran out to the shed and got these approximates: Clutch pedal free play .5", Spring compression 7", clearance between pullys 3.75", belt deflection (half way point) 1". Am not spending nearly $2000 for a cck short block for a working machine and am convincing a Briggs 16hp L-head to take over the chore. Soon I'll have the project 95% finished and will share all the info with the best tractor group on the web.

Stan

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tej
Stan,

I'm not sure, but the 1" deflection sounds a little high. Since you indicated that the belts you are using are a little too long, is it possible that the shaft going to the hydro tranny or maybe the pulley is hitting something? I would think that with the spring compressed to 7" that the belts should be tight as fiddle strings.

None the less it sounds like a neat project! I considered a re-power a few years ago myself before overhauling the CCKB, and briefly considered a Japanese water cooled diesel. Didn't have the time or patience then to attempt such a project, and since the parts I needed for the CCKB were available, I went that route instead. If you like I can get the dimensions of the 3-cylinder diesel scanned and send them to you.

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StanS
Terry,

Thanks but .... it took a month to put aside the $250 I needed for the Briggs. Diesel is a long way off for me. I think my front PTO clutch will be a fabed belt, idle pully, and lever instead of electric.

Stan

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